Hidden along the Pembrokeshire coast is the tiny hamlet of Porthgain, home to one of the country's best fish and chip shops and a pub ideal for summer evenings and cosy autumn afternoons. The picture-postcard port sits on the route of a great coastal walk and is just four miles from a beautiful blue lagoon.
A Unique Off-Grid Port
Like most quintessential Welsh fishing villages, Porthgain is reached via a narrow lane down a steep road that ends at a rough patch of gravel where cars tend to park haphazardly. The port feels like an off-grid escape, especially in the off-season.
At the water's edge on the harbour, or outside The Shed Bistro or The Sloop Inn, you can take in the entirety of Porthgain. The robustly-built harbour wall curves out towards the cliffs and craggy rocks to the north and south, with remnants of the industrial workings upon which Porthgain was built. That industry was slate, then bricks and building stones exported from Pembrokeshire from the early 19th century, giving Porthgain its unique character.
The village also has houses, holiday lets and the odd gallery. It's not a place to spend a whole day, but it's worth exploring of an early evening or as a stop-off on a walk along the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path. Those staying in Porthgain can enjoy lovely sunsets and compete for a table at The Shed or outside The Sloop.
The Shed and The Sloop
The Shed, found in a former fisherman's shack that once had no water or electricity, has attracted visitors from far and wide, including food critic Giles Coren who visited for The Times, and chef Stephen Terry, formerly of The Hardwick, who praised the "really good fish and chips".
The Shed serves freshly caught fish and seafood on an a la carte menu, with dishes like calamari or prawns, plus classic fish and chips. The golden, crisp batter extends over the length of the fish - hake, haddock or pollock - served on fluffy chips with a crisp outside.
Across the road, The Sloop Inn offers a traditional beer garden running the length of the whitewashed inn, ideal for summer nights (but take a cardi). Inside, the eclectic, busy decor includes images of Porthgain over the decades, old road signs, fishing gear and beer barrels. Live music often takes place there, with visiting choirs or booked bands.
The Sloop overlooks the harbour, piled high with remnants of the old brick-crushing works, and is surrounded by lobster pots and crog loft cottages once used by fishermen.
A Scenic Walk to Abereiddi
A 6.3-km loop walk is generally considered an easy route, suitable for walkers from beginners to experienced hikers. It can begin at either end, but Abereiddi has a paid car park and toilet facilities, so it's a good spot to start. From the pebble-strewn car park, the waymarked trail follows the cliffs, looking down over an unusual lagoon.
Abereiddy Beach has moody grey pebbles, dark coarse sand, and craggy cliffs. Facing the Irish Sea, there's a decent swell for surfers and pro paddleboarders. The area is best known for its turquoise-blue lagoon, which could be mistaken for the Mediterranean.
After passing the lagoon, the cliff path continues over open grassland, skirting along the cliffs with ocean views. You'll soon be high above Traeth Llyfn, a secluded shore completely covered at the highest tides. Strong rip currents can occur, so swimming is not recommended. Continuing along, watching for seabirds and seals, you'll soon approach Porthgain, a perfect excuse to walk off the fish and chips.
