As many British holidaymakers know, popular UK seaside destinations can become overwhelmingly crowded during school breaks and summer holidays, as crowds flock to the coast for a getaway. But where can you turn for a charming coastal alternative that offers relaxation without the hustle? One standout suggestion is a personal favourite and highly underrated spot in Wales.
Milford Haven's Remarkable Transformation
Once synonymous with heavy industry and bustling commercial docks, Milford Haven is now making significant waves as an exciting tourism destination. Dominating the estuary, this historic harbour town in south-west Wales has undergone a striking transformation, thanks to a multi-million-pound regeneration project that has revitalised its waterfront into a vibrant hub of food, entertainment, and on-the-water living.
It serves as a lovely alternative to the often-busy Tenby, whether you're planning a family break or a romantic couple's escape. At the core of the town's impressive revival is Milford Waterfront, a stylishly redeveloped marina that is quickly earning a reputation as a destination worth travelling to in its own right.
A Rich Maritime Heritage
Formed by a ria, or drowned valley, the Milford waterway is renowned as one of the deepest natural harbours in the world. It remains Wales' largest fishing port and home to the local inshore fleet. Today, while still a functioning fishing port, it has evolved into a mixed-use space for both locals and tourists, featuring berths, floating accommodation, shops, and restaurants.
From its origins as a 17th-century Quaker whaling town and shipbuilding outpost to its current status as a modern marina, Milford Haven has become a go-to weekend break spot. Here, visitors will find independent bars, locally owned shops, gallery spaces, and an increasingly sophisticated dining scene that rivals Tenby in both quality and character.
Where to Stay in Milford Haven
One of the most striking additions to Milford's astonishing facelift is the Tŷ Milford Waterfront hotel, which opened in 2022. Managed and operated by the team behind the iconic five-star Celtic Manor Resort, it forms part of The Celtic Collection's expanding portfolio and the Tŷ Hotels family, in partnership with the Port of Milford Haven.
Tŷ Milford is one of Pembrokeshire's largest hotels, boasting 100 bedrooms and a gorgeous glass-fronted restaurant, making it a favourite place to stay in the area. Since its opening, the hotel has garnered positive reviews and was crowned Hotel of the Year at the Visit Pembrokeshire - Trade Croeso Awards in 2024.
Despite its four-star status and stylish interiors, it remains surprisingly affordable, with advance purchase rooms starting from £104. Great deals can also be found on sites like Booking.com and Holiday Cottages.
The Dulse restaurant and bar is a real highlight, serving some of the best seafood in Pembrokeshire. This stylish restaurant is named after Pembrokeshire's edible, versatile seaweed, which grows abundantly along the rocky coastline. Definitely order the Tenby Harbwr Beer Battered Haddock, as it is divine.
For a unique experience, the Luxury Glamping Cabins on the marina are highly recommended, where you can stay on the water from £80 per cabin.
Things to Do in the Town
Step outside your accommodation, and you'll find plenty to do here. The boat-filled marina offers numerous bars, independent shops, and cafes to explore. History and heritage are thoughtfully displayed through walking trails and the volunteer-run Milford Haven Museum, which tells the story of Milford Haven and its proud maritime heritage.
Inside the museum, you can explore exhibits covering the Nantucket Quaker Whalers, the fishing industry, and the nautical town's crucial role in meeting the world's energy demands. Wander further along the waterfront, and you'll discover boutique shopping, cafes, seafood restaurants, and even a chocolate shop.
The port also hosts a busy calendar of events, including its popular summer campaign, which features a fish festival, a beer festival, and a street food festival. Children's activities and seasonal events, such as fireworks displays and Santa visits, take place throughout the year.
Where to Eat and Drink in Milford Haven
Some of the foodie offerings in the marina include artisan chocolates from Dilly's Chocolates, ice cream from Scoop Parlour, and sweets from Scott's. For lush seafood, try the seared scallops, prawns, or pan-fried hake fillet at Martha's Vineyard, a family-run bar and restaurant with glorious views over the Milford Haven Waterway.
Housed inside the Tŷ Hotel Milford Waterfront, Dulse is one of the best places in Pembrokeshire for delicious seafood. Several cafes along the Waterfront serve breakfast and lunch, including the Spinnaker Café, Foam, and the traditional Crow's Nest Café, where you can get a proper fry-up or bacon bap.
Further along the waterfront, you'll find dinner and drinks at the quayside restaurant Coco's, housed in the Grade II-listed 'Sail Loft' building. Pembrokeshire produce features prominently on their menu, and local tipples are also available at this upscale venue.
Activities Around the Town
Looking for something more active? At Milford Beach Activity Centre, you can experience stand-up paddleboarding and kayaking from the Hot Water Slip and explore the historic Milford Haven Waterway shorelines. This local business operates out of a blue shipping container overlooking Milford Beach and offers guided tours, stand-up paddleboard rentals, and kayak hire.
Go on a guided tour of the estuary with their experienced guides to better understand the area's history, including the Vikings that settled here, the Welsh fishing industry, the town's military connections, and past industries. Milford Haven is also a fantastic base for exploring the Pembrokeshire coast year-round.
Nearby Coastal Gems
A short drive from Milford Haven, Broad Haven Beach is a wide, sandy expanse perfect for a relaxing day by the sea. In the summer season, this family-friendly beach offers excellent facilities, including lifeguards, making it safe for swimming and sunbathing. On colder days, it's still lovely to bring a flask of hot chocolate and enjoy a bracing walk along the shoreline.
Marloes Sands is another great option for dramatic cliffs, golden sands, and crystal-clear waters. Surrounded by cliffs and accessible only on foot when the tide allows, the effort of getting to this remote Welsh beach is well worth it, with unspoiled sands, rocky outcrops, and a sea displaying the most vibrant shades of blue.
At low tide, the sand stretches out endlessly, revealing rock pools teeming with tiny crabs and sea anemones. To reach the beach, you'll need to park at the National Trust car park, about a half-mile away, and walk down. It's a bit of a trek, especially if carrying beach gear, but you're rewarded immediately with sweeping views of the coastline and distant glimpses of Skokholm and Skomer islands, both rich in birdlife.
If you want to make the most of your visit, lace up your walking boots and tackle the Marloes Peninsula coastal circuit. The National Trust has listed a brilliant circular walk that takes you across farmland, along the Wales Coast Path, and through the remains of Iron Age forts.
