The coveted Michelin Guide is set to arrive in Australia for the first time, with South Australia becoming the first state to be included after its government reached a deal with the French company. The first anonymous inspectors are already in the state, which ranks number one in the nation for "good food and wine" and "world-class wineries and wine regions," according to research from the SA tourism commission.
Impact of Michelin Stars
The much-coveted guide and Michelin stars can transform restaurants, attracting locals and tourists, but also place immense pressure on them. In Europe, chefs have described them as a "curse," while questions have been raised about standards given the company's deals with tourist boards in exchange for including certain regions. Michelin said it is committed to "the highest global standards," and the SA government emphasized that the selection process is "entirely independent," with restaurants unable to pay for inclusion.
Deal Details and Economic Benefits
The amount paid by South Australia is commercial-in-confidence, but it is likely to have been millions. Tourism Minister Emily Bourke stated that the Michelin Guide has "a proven track record as a powerful driver of gastronomic tourism and economic development in the region it covers" and will give SA an advantage over other states. The picks for the 2027 guide will be announced in October, with winners awarded one, two, or three stars, or a "bib gourmand" for moderately priced restaurants.
Wes Lambert, CEO of the Restaurant and Catering Association, said the awards will prompt other states to get onboard, drawing hundreds of thousands of tourists and billions of dollars. "Ultimately there is a true FOMO [fear of missing out], it's a real fear that if they do not get on board for the next [yearly] guide, that SA could end up with thousands, tens of thousands, hundreds of thousands of international tourists coming to bucket list, listed restaurants," he said. He noted that other states' concerns about Michelin ratings negatively affecting media or state-based systems are irrational, outweighed by the international tourism spending.
Regional Promotion and New Restaurants
The state government said regions including Kangaroo Island, McLaren Vale, the Barossa, and the Clare Valley will feature in tourism promotions. Meanwhile, Restaurant Aptos opened in the Adelaide Hills a week ago with one of Australia's most expensive degustations—a 16-course meal focused on native ingredients in a converted church, priced at $495 a head (drinks not included). Chef Justin James, who won multiple accolades at his previous spot, Restaurant Botanic, said he thought "in the most humble way" it was "already one of the best restaurants in this country and will be one of the best in the world."
Comparisons with Other Tourism Deals
The Australian Financial Review reported last year that Tourism Australia had turned down a $40 million, five-year deal with Michelin. On a per capita basis, that would translate to about $2.76 million for SA. Tourism New Zealand, however, reportedly paid Michelin NZ$6.3 million ($5.5 million). Bloomberg reported last year that the French company had for the first time been explicit about tourism boards paying for reviewers. Michelin Guide's international director Gwendal Poullennec said they "wanted to give the complete picture" as they went global with a similar award for hotels. "It's about explaining our whole strategy," he said.
Poullennec noted that the Michelin inspectors in SA were "struck by the authenticity and personality of the region's dining culture" and that the state "offers an impressive diversity of culinary expressions within a single destination."
Reactions from Adelaide Chefs
Prominent Adelaide chefs heaped praise on the idea. Africola's Duncan Welgemoed, who was the 21-year-old head chef at UK restaurant the Goose when it won a Michelin star, said it was "incredibly important" for chefs, front of house, winemakers, and producers, and that it would stop the "brain drain" of foodie people going east. "Having a Michelin star next to an Adelaide address tells a diner in Tokyo, in Paris, in Beijing, that we are truly world class," he said.
Michelin evaluates restaurants based on quality of ingredients, mastery of cooking techniques, harmony of flavours, personality of the cuisine, and consistency over time and across the menu.
