Madeira is proving to be a destination that appeals to all ages, from marathon runners to octogenarians. The island, just a three-and-a-half-hour flight from the UK, offers a semi-tropical climate and vibrant colours that provide a welcome respite from Britain's grey skies.
The author's journey began with a mix-up at Gatwick Airport, where she nearly missed her EasyJet flight to Funchal. On board, she encountered a younger crowd than expected, including a 31-year-old runner planning a wine-tasting session before a 26-mile race and a personal trainer eager to explore the volcanic terrain.
Upon arrival, the author's 84-year-old mother had already bonded with a local taxi driver and was navigating Funchal's cobbled streets with walking sticks. The pair embarked on a quest to find ancestors buried on the island, armed with a 1914 guidebook and a photograph of Edwardian relatives.
Madeira's restorative qualities have long been celebrated, with historical figures such as Empress Elizabeth of Austria-Hungary and Winston Churchill having spent time there. Both stayed at the renowned Reid's Palace Hotel, where the author and her mother enjoyed afternoon tea.
The author's family history is tied to the Madeira wine trade, which Britain dominated in the 19th century. At the Holy Trinity Anglican Church, built without a steeple to respect local Catholic sensibilities, they encountered a community of expatriates who directed them to the British cemetery.
Renting a car is recommended for exploring the island, despite the challenge of hill starts in Funchal. The drive reveals a rural Portugal, with roadside cafés and small churches contrasting with modern EU-funded infrastructure, including tunnels up to 3km long.
