Jamie Oliver has opened his first UK restaurant since the collapse of his Jamie's Italian chain in 2019, and the critic from The Guardian is impressed. The new venue, Jamie Oliver Catherine St, is located in London's Covent Garden, next to the Theatre Royal where Disney's Frozen is playing. The restaurant offers a menu of "elevated British classics" and has a festive atmosphere with a Christmas tree and twinkly lights.
The menu is described as Oliver's "greatest hits album," featuring dishes inspired by his parents' pub, such as his dad Trevor's chicken (a tender breast stuffed with wild mushrooms and wrapped in puff pastry) and scampi and chips reimagined with langoustine and pickle ketchup. There are also nods to his time at the River Café, with a fresh pasta section and chocolate nemesis cake. The critic notes that the restaurant emphasises sourcing ingredients from the British Isles.
Several dishes sold out by 7pm, including a fettuccine dish. The critic enjoyed croquettes of potato, leek and Lancashire cheese, as well as gravlax with beetroot and vodka cured salmon. The portions are generous, and the space is described as warm and welcoming with sleek banquettes, tea lights, and a glowing bar. However, the critic warns of potential blandness at a not insignificant price point, estimating £42 a head but noting they spent £150 on three courses and one drink each for two people.
Oliver has been humble about getting a "second chance" in hospitality, and the critic concludes that while Oliver brings magic, the restaurant itself must be a reason to believe in it. The critic plans to return, possibly with a child wearing a tiara, to try the fettuccine.
