Arranmore, an island off the coast of Donegal, is bucking the trend of pub closures in Ireland and the UK. With a population of just 480 permanent residents, the island boasts six pubs, giving it one of the highest pub-per-capita ratios anywhere. The island's unique charm is further enhanced by a secret nightclub run by OAPs, known as Smugglers, which opens at midnight and operates on an irregular schedule.
The island's pubs cater to a mix of locals and tourists, especially during summer when Coláiste Árainn Mhóir's Irish course brings hundreds of teenagers. Among the six pubs are Neilys, the only inland pub serving cocktails and craft beer in summer; Early's, a three-generation family business run by sisters Kayla and Aisling; and Phil Bans, a lively spot packed with punters wearing football jerseys.
Arranmore also lacks a permanent police presence, leading to relaxed licensing laws and late-night parties that continue until everyone is done. The secret nightclub Smugglers is an institution, opening only when the OAP operators feel like it, often announced on Facebook. Partygoers who knock on the door at midnight may be lucky enough to be let in.
The island offers stunning scenery, including a lighthouse on western cliffs above rough seas, and a more sheltered eastern side where most pubs are located. Accommodation options include glamping pods with sea views and hot tubs. Despite the cold and wind, the island's pub culture and warm atmosphere make it a special destination.
