A gorgeous European city, basking in a balmy 26C in November, offers a starkly different experience from its chaotic summer self, providing a glimpse into the roots of local anger that sparked massive anti-tourism demonstrations.
Having just returned to the UK from Palma de Mallorca, this journalist found a city transformed outside the peak season. The streets were pleasantly quiet, the Mallorcan people were incredibly welcoming, and the absence of the usual tourist throngs made exploration a genuine treat.
The Summer of Discontent: Protests and Parking Chaos
This serene November scene stands in sharp contrast to the summer of 2025, when large-scale anti-tourism protests erupted on the streets of Palma. Locals brandished signs telling holidaymakers to go home, a sentiment that becomes understandable upon seeing the city in both its peak and off-peak states.
One local family revealed that the island's peak season is a living nightmare for residents. They described mission-impossible parking situations, significant traffic increases causing chaos, and beaches that become too crowded to enjoy. Many eateries, particularly in Palma, become unbearably busy, making a simple meal out a stressful endeavour.
The Root of the Anger: Holiday Lets and Housing Shortages
The core of the issue extends beyond crowded streets. A native Mallorcan woman voiced the frustration shared by many, pointing to skyrocketing rents driven by the mass conversion of homes into holiday rentals like Airbnb. This inflation of the 'average' rent, due to comparisons with high holiday home rates, has created a worrying shortage of affordable housing, especially in the capital, Palma.
Given that Mallorca is a relatively small island, only about 62 miles wide, constructing new affordable homes is not a straightforward solution. The problem is a global one, affecting destinations from Cornwall to Barcelona, but its impact is acutely felt on this Mediterranean island.
A Sustainable Alternative: The Off-Peak Escape
Travelling outside the summer months presents a more sustainable way to appreciate Mallorca while respecting the local population. Navigating the island by bus in November was simple and efficient, a world away from the excessive traffic of peak season.
Strolling through Palma's tree-lined streets when tourists are few offers an authentic taste of city life. The city was pristine and clean, with preparations underway for the Christmas lights switch-on scheduled for Saturday, November 22, 2025, at 8pm.
Choosing hotels over Airbnb-style holiday lets, such as the HM Palma Blanc which offered luxury and comfort, is a conscious decision that can help mitigate the havoc wreaked by short-term rentals in tourist-heavy areas. With its markets, independent shops, and fantastic eateries, a winter visit to Mallorca proves to be a genuinely delightful and more responsible travel experience.
