Discovering the Hope Valley: A Peak District Gem with a Defiant Past
In search of a getaway closer to home, I embarked on a journey to the Hope Valley in the Peak District, a region celebrated for its unchanged landscapes and rich history. As my friend and I paused to reload our map, we encountered Brian, a 91-year-old seasoned hiker with a face lathered in suncream and a sensible sunhat. Sensing our amateur status, he eagerly shared a scenic route through the ancient woodlands of Padley Gorge, recounting tales of a childhood immersed in this timeless nature. According to Brian, the landscape has barely altered over the last century, enhancing its beauty and allure.
A Historic Stay at Losehill House
My long weekend in the Peaks included a stay at the gorgeous Losehill House, a hotel and spa nestled in the picturesque Hope Valley. Before enjoying a three-course, Michelin-worthy feast, co-owner Paul Roden, who runs the hotel with his wife Kathryn, explained the building's historical significance. In 1932, ramblers from Manchester and Sheffield gathered here to plan a mass trespass. These industrial workers, desperate for respite from smoggy cities, faced resistance from landowners during their weekend explorations. Their gutsy protest on the privately owned Kinder Scout plateau led to six arrests and sowed the seeds for the right to roam movement. In 1951, partly due to their activism, the Peak District was designated the UK's first national park, spanning 555 miles across Derbyshire, Cheshire, Greater Manchester, Staffordshire, West Yorkshire, and South Yorkshire.
Exploring Lesser-Known Treasures
While many are familiar with Bakewell's tarts, Chatsworth House, and Buxton's thermal springs, the Hope Valley offers fabled villages, breathtaking viewpoints, and unorthodox tourist spots. Accessible via the Hope Valley railway line linking Sheffield and Manchester, it's a haven for public transport users. A visit to Hathersage is essential, home to a heated, preserved open-air pool and a literary legacy; its rugged landscapes inspired Jane Eyre, and you can visit the alleged grave of Little John, Robin Hood's second-in-command, whose name humorously references his colossal height.
Fueling Adventures with Local Flavours
Any long walk requires sustenance, and my first stop was Coleman's Deli, run by Jim and Lizzie Mothersele since 2006. Jim, trained at Chatsworth House, has perfected a classic yet elevated menu, featuring homemade items like preserved lemon mayonnaise and scratch-made tomato ketchup. The chilli chicken sandwich is a best-seller, but the salads, inspired by Ottolenghi, are deliciously unorthodox. My BLT came with a side salad of crunchy green beans, peas, black lentils, and mixed leaves. Jim and Lizzie praise Hathersage for its tight-knit community and scenic walks, such as the North Lees Hall Walk, capped off with food at the Barrel Inn.
Unearthing History in Eyam
A short trip away is the "Plague Village" of Eyam, which gained renewed interest during the Covid pandemic. We explored the Eyam Museum, complete with dress-up boxes and trivia gems, including a bizarre plague "cure" involving chickens. Eyam boasts independent cafes, like Village Green with its exceptional scones, and scenic walks through gravestones and 17th-century stone cottages in Stoney Middleton. For a post-walk feast, Stella's Kitchen offers Afro-Caribbean cuisine, from Sunday roasts to plantain crisps and spicy ginger cake.
Relaxation and Natural Wonders
Losehill House Hotel, a five-minute taxi ride from Hope station, provided a secluded oasis. Guests can enjoy spa treatments, but we opted for laps in the indoor pool and soaks in the outdoor jacuzzi. The award-winning in-house restaurant served a pan-fried trout that was one of the best meals I've ever eaten, with vegan options like shallot tarte tatin and dark chocolate olive oil ganache.
Hiking Through Ancient Woodlands
On the final day, we embarked on a circular hike from Grindleford station through Padley Gorge, an ancient oak woodland rich in biodiversity and a birdwatcher's paradise, where we spotted a wild nuthatch. Kids love paddling in streams and hopping across stepping stones, while nearby, the Longshaw Estate offers peaceful moorland and wildlife-spotting opportunities. The cafe here features a rotating menu of scones, including a lemon and white chocolate variety.
Accessibility and Unique Experiences
In warmer months, natural attractions like Peak Cavern, known locally as the "Devil's Arse," host unique film screenings and events. Efforts to improve accessibility include new paths at Ilam Park and flat walks at Ladybower Reservoir with accessible boat rides. This pilgrimage through the Peaks is a moving experience, celebrating an act of defiance and love for nature that has preserved these woodlands through time.
Practical Information
Trains to Sheffield run from terminals across the country, including London with East Midlands Railway and Edinburgh with CrossCountry. Trains to Hope Station operate from Sheffield and Manchester. Rooms at Losehill House start from £123 per night, offering a secluded retreat just minutes from Hope station.
