Montenegro's island of Sveti Nikola, a short boat ride from Budva, has earned the nickname 'Hawaii' from locals due to its turquoise waters and pristine beaches. The island, the largest in Montenegro, features seven beaches, two beach bars, a restaurant, and activities including diving, snorkeling, cliff diving, and rock climbing. Visitors can swim to an island cave or visit a lighthouse just over a mile from the harbour. A 1,000-year-old church greets visitors at the harbour.
Budva's Old Town Comes Alive at Night
Budva's Old Town (Stari Grad) is a walled Venetian settlement with narrow streets, villas, cafes, boutiques, and churches. By day, tour groups admire the citadel and sea views from the walls. At night, alleys open into lively piazzas where young people enjoy cocktails and music. Fragrant jasmine and stars overhead enhance the atmosphere. Local recommendations include the Blue Cat for unique cocktails in a narrow square, and Mañana, a Mexican restaurant serving many cocktails, including kiwi margaritas and Turkish delight martinis (€12-€15). End the night with €3.50 pizza slices or €2-per-scoop gelato from tiny pizzerias.
Sveti Stefan: Island of Film Stars
Sveti Stefan, a former fishing village on an island accessed by a causeway, was transformed into a luxury resort by the Yugoslav government and frequented by Sophia Loren, Sydney Poitier, and Elizabeth Taylor. Now run by Aman, it hosted Novak Djokovic's wedding in 2014. Many picturesque beaches are private, but Montenegrin law requires 30% to be public, with free access including sun loungers after 5pm. Sveti Stefan is 5 miles from Budva by bus (€2.50 round trip). The Olive restaurant serves hearty Italian food at the causeway's foot.
Budva's Best Beach: Mogren
While Becici beach stretches for a mile, locals recommend Mogren beach, past the Old Town walls. Follow a narrow cliff path, stop at the ballerina statue, and discover a golden stretch of fine shingle with cool blue waters. A beach bar, swimming area, and caves provide shade. A narrow cave with a metal bridge leads to a more idyllic, sheltered section overlooked by a villa with a bar and restaurant (local beer €5).
Stari Grad's 2,500-Year History
Budva has Illyrian, Greek, and Roman roots, with visible Roman bath house ruins among Venetian additions. Unlike other Montenegrin coastal towns, Budva never fell to the Ottomans, preserving a unique blend of cultures. An icon of Saint Nicholas, removed during communist times, has been recovered and restored above the main gate. Inside, narrow cobbled streets lead to Poet's Square, where poetry readings have occurred for centuries; a violinist now entertains. Another square hosts theatre performances with a 9th-century church as backdrop. The Venetian citadel features a wisteria-covered corridor and a tower with panoramic views.
How to Get There
One & Only Portonovi rates start from £245 per night (oneandonlyresorts.com/portonovi). Iberostar Waves Slavija from £80 per night (iberostar.com). British Airways flies London Heathrow to Tivat from £172 return (ba.com). More at montenegro.travel and holidayextras.com.
