Enniskillen, Ireland's sole island town, has recently been crowned the nation's most underrated destination, and a visit reveals why this Fermanagh jewel deserves far more acclaim. Nestled between Upper and Lower Lough Erne, this vibrant community of 14,000 residents boasts a stunning waterside setting, a rich history, and unique attractions that captivate all who venture here.
A Heavenly Setting on the Water
"It's a heavenly place to live," declares Barry Flanagan, a local water taxi tour guide, as he navigates the sparkling waters of Lough Erne. With a background in local radio and lifelong boating skills, Barry's enthusiasm for Enniskillen is infectious. He emphasizes, "Enniskillen is Ireland's only island town, completely surrounded by water. We're so lucky we live here."
Lough Erne, the third largest freshwater lake in the UK, stretches across the south-western border, offering a bright and clean landscape. The flooded drumlin terrain features reedswamps, islets, and cormorants drying their wings in the sunshine. With water taxis chugging by, the waterways can evoke comparisons to rural Netherlands or Croatia's Vid delta, especially during rare sunny breaks from the sleet showers.
Historical Treasures and Monastic Sites
Enniskillen's history is as deep as its waters. A short boat ride leads to Devenish Island, described by Barry as "the jewel" among Lough Erne's 254 islands. This 6th-century monastic site, though cleared during Henry VIII's dissolution of the monasteries, retains well-preserved remains, including a perfect tower.
Nearby, Enniskillen Royal Grammar School stands imposingly on a hill, having educated literary giants like Oscar Wilde and Samuel Beckett. Legends tell of truanting students who once blew up the nearby 1613 Portora Castle using chemistry lab skills. More enduring is the 600-year-old Enniskillen Castle, a strategic stronghold since Hugh the Hospitable's time. Later used as a plantation base by the British, it now serves as a low-key museum.
Local Culture and Culinary Delights
Barry Flanagan proudly notes, "Fermanagh is a small county, but it packs a huge punch," highlighting attractions like 14 plantation castles, three National Trust properties, a cross-border geopark, the Stairway to Heaven, and the Marble Arch Caves. This sentiment is echoed in local haunts like Blakes of the Hollow, a Victorian pub famous across Ireland. Packed with patrons enjoying £5 pints of Guinness and weekend live music, it embodies the town's vibrant spirit.
For dining, 28 at the Hollow, run by Glen Wheeler and Zara McHugh, offers award-winning cuisine and exceptional service, highly recommended by locals. The Lough Erne Resort provides luxurious accommodation, with enormous rooms designed for golfers relaxing after playing on its 36-hole course. OAP bellboys and crackling wood fires add to its grand charm.
Hidden Gems and Vintage Finds
Start your day with coffee and croissants at FOLK before exploring Lougherne Vintage in the quaint Butter Market. Proprietor Katie Murphy and her husband scour European bootfairs for genuine treasures, avoiding online sources like eBay. Their dedication results in a shop brimming with unique items, including reasonably priced Vivienne Westwood dresses.
Like Enniskillen itself, a visit promises the discovery of hidden gems. As Barry concludes, "It's a heavenly place to live and we're so lucky we live here." This underrated island town, with its beautiful views, water taxis, and deep history, is a destination that truly deserves more attention.
