A looming ban on potassium bromate, a flour additive linked to cancer, could force thousands of New York pizzerias and bagel shops to alter their recipes. The state legislature has passed a bill banning the substance, which is already outlawed in the European Union, China, India, Canada, and will be banned in California next year. The bill now awaits Governor Kathy Hochul's signature.
Potassium bromate is used as an oxidizing agent to strengthen dough, reduce resting time, and create a chewier texture. Scott Wiener, a pizza historian, estimates that about 80% of pizza and bagel shops in New York rely on bromated flour. He described the potential ban as an 'earth-shaking event' for the city's iconic foods.
Some bakers have already begun adapting. Salvatore Lo Duca, who runs Lo Duca Pizza in Brooklyn with his brothers, switched to unbromated flour after learning of the health risks. 'When we started playing around with a different flour, I actually took a liking to it,' he said. 'It’s a little more expensive, but the quality is there.' Similarly, Jesse Spellman of Utopia Bagels has been adjusting his family recipe, experimenting with yeast and rising times, though he noted it will take time to achieve a product they are happy with.
Critics argue the ban is overdue. Erik Millstone, a professor at the University of Sussex, noted that studies since the 1980s have shown potassium bromate can cause cancer in laboratory animals at 'perfectly reasonable' doses. 'Most well-informed people would prioritize a long, healthy life over a slightly softer bun,' he said.
While many artisanal pizzerias already use unbromated flour, neighbourhood slice shops predominantly use General Mills' 'All Trumps' flour, a staple for decades. General Mills now offers an unbromated version at a similar price, though other alternatives may be costlier. Wiener believes the shift could improve quality, leading to better-fermented doughs and lighter pizzas.
If the ban passes, businesses will have a one-year grace period to use existing stocks. Governor Hochul's office confirmed she will review the bill. The debate has even sparked comparisons beyond New York, with a Florida pizzeria owner claiming his state's pizza is now superior, though he later reconsidered his stance after criticism.
