Beyond the tourist haunts of Croatia's Vis island, there's a quieter side with quiet beaches, vine-covered hills and affordable waterside restaurants. Despite the popularity of the Blue Cave and the Mamma Mia! film boost, the island offers a more relaxed experience.
In sleepy Rukavac on Vis's south-eastern coast, British couple Xania and Craig Wear run WearActive, offering yoga, kayaking, paddleboarding and cycling. Their seven-day 'relaxingly active' holidays allow guests to do as much or as little as they like. The couple serve plant-based food on a large shaded terrace with sea views.
Activities include kayaking 10km from Rukavac to Stiniva Bay, Vis's most famous beach, where only kayaks, paddleboards and small dinghies are allowed. Early morning visits offer a peaceful swim with few people. Paddleboarding lessons are also available in tranquil Ruda bay.
Away from the water, visitors can explore Vis's vineyard-covered interior and winding mountain roads. Vis town comes alive at night with restaurant terraces along the Venetian harbour. Smaller Komiža offers affordable dining, such as Konoba Jastožera, a restaurant on stilts over the water where two courses cost €25 without lobster.
Vis was off limits to foreigners until 1989 when the Yugoslav army base closed. The island seems to be taking its time developing tourism, maintaining a mellow atmosphere away from the crowds.
