Charlie Sawyer discovers the unmissable side of Tenerife far from the crowded resorts. Our guide Roberto grins, leading us past grazing goats with Mount Teide's volcanic peak looming. This is not the Tenerife I thought I knew. The largest Canary Island has a reputation for overtourism and all-inclusives, but the north coast offers a different world.
A New Perspective on Tenerife
Puerto de la Cruz, on the greener, quieter north coast, feels like another island. While mass tourism concerns persist, local business owners are eager to share their Tenerife. After a British Airways flight from Gatwick, I arrived at the Gran Hotel Taoro, a magnificent five-star nestled above Puerto de la Cruz. Opened in 1890 as Spain's first luxury hotel, it reopened in late 2025 after a €35 million renovation. With 199 rooms offering panoramic views of Mount Teide and the Atlantic, the hotel celebrates the natural landscape.
Exploring the Real Tenerife
Guide Roberto Carlos Martín López, a local encyclopaedia, drove us away from tourist buses toward Mount Teide. We glimpsed natural rock pools and climbed into the spectacular incline overlooking the Atlantic. In a rocky valley, we watched Roberto demonstrate Canarian goat jumping, or Salto del Pastor, a tradition from the indigenous Guanche people. Roberto emphasizes quality tourism: working with small groups, collaborating with local producers, and supporting the local economy.
Local Cuisine and Guachinches
Fine dining at the hotel is outstanding, but the most memorable meal was at Guachinches Ramón, a family-owned restaurant on a hillside. Guachinches are rustic establishments serving homemade food, rooted in north Tenerife. I loved papas arrugadas with mojo sauces. Rabbit in salmorejo is also a 10/10 choice. With a ginger cat purring at our feet, it felt like dining in someone's backyard.
Where to Stay
For an authentic stay, the Gran Hotel Taoro is the only choice. It features a wellness centre and five dining experiences, including one with Michelin-starred chef Ricardo Sanz. British Airways Holidays offers seven nights from £1,229 per person, including flights from Gatwick and breakfast. Book by June 10, 2026. The Canaries are beloved, but my journey north showed I had barely scratched the surface.
