Cambodia, once primarily a stop on the backpacker trail, is now emerging as a distinguished tourist destination in its own right. Following a year of political disruption, the country is witnessing a surge in confidence, marked by significant infrastructure developments and growing international recognition.
New Airports Signal a Bright Future
Five decades after the Khmer Rouge regime, Cambodia's capital, Phnom Penh, has unveiled the Techo International Airport, designed by the renowned firm Foster & Partners. Opened in September, this sparkling new facility symbolizes the nation's burgeoning appeal to tourists. Prime Minister Hun Manet, at the inauguration, highlighted Cambodia's emergence from "the darkest chapters of history."
In Siem Reap, a new airport opened in 2023, located about an hour's drive from the city center. This development was crucial as the gateway to the Angkor temple complex, where the vibrations and traffic from the old airport posed risks to the ancient structures. The new airport is designed to preserve the integrity of nearby Angkor Wat, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Overcoming Recent Challenges
Despite these advancements, Cambodia has faced recent challenges. Last year, a border conflict with Thailand resulted in airstrikes, internal displacement, and over 100 deaths. A ceasefire was agreed in December, and while tensions persist, leaders are optimistic that 2026 will welcome a new wave of tourists.
UNESCO has also recognized major historic Cambodian locations as world heritage sites, including the Killing Fields execution site and two Khmer Rouge prisons, underscoring the country's complex history.
Luxury and Accessibility on the Rise
Twenty years ago, luxury in Siem Reap was limited to a few establishments like the five-star Raffles. Today, visitors can experience upscale accommodations such as the FCC Angkor by Avani, which reopened in 2019. This property, designed around the former French governor's residence, features a sunbed-flanked pool, open-air bars, and a spa offering sigh-worthy massages.
Tourists are now picked up by uniformed drivers in air-conditioned cars, gliding through rural landscapes where long grasses reflect in shallow pools of storm-season rainwater. Such luxuries provide a pleasant retreat after exploring in the sticky heat, especially during the "green season" with its grey skies and sudden storms.
Exploring Ancient Temples
Angkor Wat, a 12th-century complex, remains a highlight, with visitors encouraged to peer closely at bas-relief figures. Guides like Kim, a craftsman, point out hidden carvings where stonemasons expressed creativity, such as figures holding hands to denote friendship. Although looters and time have stripped the color, resources like Andrew Booth's The Angkor Guidebook offer detailed artistic impressions.
Ta Prohm, popularized by the 2001 film Tomb Raider, presents an otherworldly sight with limestone chunks smothered in green moss and dripping tree roots. Nature and architecture collide here, creating a mesmerizing yet fragile environment.
Thanks to extensive landmine clearing, Beng Melea temple has become accessible, though it remains lesser-visited due to its 90-minute drive from Siem Reap. Built under King Suryavarman II, it features moss-velveted fallen stones and dancing butterflies in lightshafts, with architectural remnants like lion statues and Apsara dancers frozen in time.
A Nation Between Two Worlds
Cambodia's population reflects its tragic past, with only around 6 percent aged over 65, a direct result of Khmer Rouge atrocities. This demographic reality is palpable, with few elderly people seen in daily life. The Landmine Museum and clearing efforts are poignant reminders of this history.
As the country transitioned from communism in the early 2000s, it joined a backpacker trail with Thailand and Vietnam. Areas like Pub Street in Siem Reap, with its affordable beers and massages, hark back to this era. However, today's paved roads and less-hassling vendors indicate a shift towards a more refined tourism experience.
Ideal Time to Visit
Cambodia is on the brink of a tourism moment. While travel from the UK still requires connections, new airports may encourage direct routes in the future, making it even more appealing. For now, the country projects a welcoming attitude from a place between two worlds, making it the perfect time to visit before further development alters its hopefulness.
If there has ever been a time to explore Cambodia's rich history, luxury offerings, and natural beauty, it is now.
