Barcelona drew 16 million tourists in 2024, a city of 1.6 million residents, leading to protests against overtourism. Tourism accounts for a fifth of the economy but also pushes residents out, with over 10,000 apartments licensed as short-term rentals. Despite the tensions, the city's progressive politics, authentic food scene, and late-night culture remain alluring.
Catalan-born pastry chef Jordi Roca, of three-Michelin-starred El Celler de Can Roca, recently guided a tour of his favourite local spots. The tour began at Paradiso in the Gothic Quarter, named best bar in the world in 2022, known for surreal drinks like a truffle martini that forms a Gaudi-esque stalagmite. Roca explained that true Barcelona requires looking in unexpected places.
Dinner was at Bar Super near Santa Caterina Market, a spot popular among locals. Manager David Garcia served a cloudy Galician white wine, and dishes included anchovies with smoked butter and mackerel cooked over a yakitori grill. Roca noted the authenticity of the place, where no English was heard throughout the meal.
The next day, Roca recommended Oaxaca Cuina Mexicana near the Old Port, which head chef Joan Bagur runs. The restaurant serves what Roca calls Spain's best tacos, reflecting Barcelona's absorption of other influences. Dishes included oysters with fried crickets and ants, red tuna tostadas, and Oaxaca-style chicken with black mole.
The tour concluded at 112-year-old Quimet y Quimet in Poble-sec, a standing-only restaurant with no kitchen. Everything is assembled from tins and jars, like smoked salmon with yoghurt and honey on toast. A friend described it as so local one might walk out with a Catalan accent. The tour was meant to end at Brunch Electronik, a dance music event loved by locals.
