The pervasive scent of sulphur hangs heavily in the coastal air of Santa Cruz del Norte, a Cuban town that paradoxically sits near petroleum production sites and hosts one of the nation's major thermoelectric plants. Despite this proximity to energy sources, the community remains engulfed in darkness, grappling with relentless power outages that have become a daily ordeal.
Deepening Crisis Amid Escalating Tensions
As diplomatic strains intensify between Cuba and the United States, following US military action in Venezuela that disrupted crucial oil shipments, the hardships faced by residents have multiplied. People in this town, located east of Havana, are now forced to revert to primitive cooking methods, using coal and firewood, though many struggle to afford even these basic alternatives.
Personal Struggles in a Crumbling Infrastructure
Kenia Montoya, a mother living in a deteriorating cinderblock home with her children, recently resorted to tearing the wooden door from her bathroom to use as firewood. "Things are getting worse for us now," she lamented. "They don't supply us with petroleum. They don't supply us with food. Where does that leave us, then?" A faded purple sheet now serves as a makeshift bathroom curtain, while her dwindling coal supply raises anxieties about future meals.
This uncertainty echoes across Cuba after former US President Donald Trump threatened tariffs on nations supplying oil to the island, declaring Cuba a "failed nation" and highlighting its severed financial ties with Venezuela. The Cuban government remains silent on its oil reserves, offering no clarity on potential support from Russia or other allies, despite praising a recent conversation with Russian Foreign Minister Sergey Lavrov.
Community Resilience and Growing Desperation
Near the town's entrance, a bold mural proclaims "NO ONE GIVES UP HERE. LONG LIVE A FREE CUBA," yet residents question their endurance. The island's crisis manifests in severe blackouts, skyrocketing prices, and shortages of essential goods. Gladys Delgado, a 67-year-old pensioner receiving only $6 monthly, voices widespread fear: "With all those tariffs they're going to impose on countries, no oil will come in, and how are we going to live?" To supplement her income, she sews colourful rugs from clothing scraps.
Neighbour Minorkys Hoyos, a 53-year-old diabetic, cooks cassava in water drawn from a barrel, using a makeshift grill indoors. Her rechargeable lights have failed, leaving her to navigate in darkness until a neighbour gifted her an improvised lantern made from fuel and a reused baby food jar. "When it's dark, I don't see," she admitted, highlighting the perilous conditions.
A Brief Respite Shattered
For three months, Santa Cruz del Norte enjoyed electricity while much of Cuba suffered outages due to ageing infrastructure and fuel shortages. Residents like Iván Amores remained apprehensive, fearing a return to darkness. Their worries materialised a week ago when blackouts resumed. "This used to be wonderful," Amores recalled. "Now, it's truly torture." He now cooks for his family using a small barbecue pit, opting for pricier, less smoky coal at $3 per bag.
Amores invested in a single tube light with a USB port, crafted by a Cuban entrepreneur, but such innovations remain unaffordable for many. Mariela Viel, a 67-year-old former power company cafeteria worker, receives an $8 monthly pension and cannot afford to add a bathroom to her dirt-floored home. "What can I afford? Nothing. Not even a package of chicken," she said, reminiscing about a childhood free from blackouts.
Adapting to Hardship with Defiant Spirit
Amid the crisis, communities adapt. During a recent cold snap, with record lows of 0°C recorded nearby, neighbours carried buckets of warmed water for family showers. Celebrations now start earlier, like a boy's 15th birthday party held mid-afternoon before moving outdoors under a yellow moon. Nearby, Olga Lilia Laurenti celebrated her 61st birthday with music blasting from a scooter, dancing and singing with friends.
"I'm telling you, whatever's meant to be, let it be, because we can't stop it," Laurenti reflected, pausing from her dance. "You're not going to waste part of your life on something that's out of your control. If only we could do something, but what are we going to do? We can't suffer. You need laughter, you need joy."
As Mexico pledges humanitarian aid, including food, in response to Trump's calls to suspend oil shipments, the people of Santa Cruz del Norte brace for further challenges, their resilience tested by an energy crisis compounded by geopolitical tensions.
