A prestigious London fashion house, whose designs have been worn by members of the Royal Family and a high-profile Conservative MP, is embroiled in allegations concerning unpaid factory workers in Turkey.
Allegations of Unpaid Wages and Redundancy
Fifty cutters and machinists in Istanbul are reportedly owed up to three months of unpaid salaries and redundancy money after the studio they worked for closed abruptly in April. According to reports, fourteen former staff are still owed sums ranging from £2,600 to £9,000 each.
The factory was a supplier for the luxury label Safiyaa, known for creating dresses costing up to £5,000. One affected worker is Kadir Ates, 43, a supervisor who cut the fabric for the scarlet gown worn by Dame Penny Mordaunt at the Coronation of King Charles III.
Mr Ates told reporters the workers feel "abused" and are determined to fight for the money they believe they are owed. "We want to stand up for people's rights and justice," he said, adding a plea for the Royal Family in the UK to be made aware of their situation.
Safiyaa's Royal Connections and Response
Founded in 2011 by German-born designer Daniela Karnuts, Safiyaa has a notable royal clientele. Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, wore a £1,295 scarlet Safiyaa dress to a Royal Albert Hall concert in March 2020. The Princess of Wales also wore a purple design by the label at Wimbledon last year.
In response to the allegations, Safiyaa stated that the Turkish factory was an independent third-party supplier with sole responsibility for its workforce and wage payments. The label confirmed it never owned or operated the factory, named Atelier Nouveau Tekstil Ltd.
Safiyaa acknowledged that Ms Karnuts had funded some discretionary payments to affected staff as a "good-faith gesture" but stressed this was not an admission of liability. The decision to close the factory and make redundancies was taken solely by Atelier Nouveau, the company said.
Factory Management and Escalating Problems
Workers claim their problems began in 2019 when operation of the workshop was taken over by Atelier Nouveau. They allege the factory was then managed by Jalil Teja, whom they describe as the nephew of Ms Karnuts's husband, Akbar Shamji.
Mr Ates stated that while wages were once paid on time, delays began after this management change. "Sometimes wages were two months' late. They kept saying, 'It's going to come, don't worry'," he explained. The factory finally closed in April, leaving staff without promised severance packages.
Turkish company records indicate Mr Teja listed his address as a Mayfair property also linked to Ms Karnuts and Mr Shamji. Separate records show the firm was controlled by a former business associate of Mr Shamji, Claudio Ernesto Eusebio Alburquerque. Attempts to contact Mr Teja and Mr Alburquerque for comment were unsuccessful.
The situation highlights ongoing concerns about supply chain transparency in the global fashion industry, even for brands associated with the highest echelons of society.
