For a food writer, improving the national quality of spag bol is high stakes. In a blind test of more than 26 tins of tomatoes, Nicholas Jordan sorts fact from pulp fiction. He goes through a lot of tinned tomatoes, but had never thought about which brand to buy. The taste test aimed to identify the best and worst tinned tomatoes to improve weekly cooking across Australia.
How the Test Was Conducted
A team of six reviewers tasted 26 cans of diced, chopped, or pulped tomato. They tried them all blind, twice: straight but heated through, and cooked into a simple sauce. The sauce was made with a tablespoon of olive oil, 4g garlic, a quarter-tablespoon of salt, and eight oregano leaves.
The First Results
The taste test was the most difficult to judge. The exceptional products never came. Some were more enjoyable than others, but the margins were tiny. Every single cooked version was liked. Other reviewers gave more radical scores, but when asked to re-taste only the cooked versions, they admitted the previously poorly scored samples were tasty.
Why They Tested Again
The first results were hard to believe, so another test was conducted with several Mutti varieties and a poorly scored brand. The results were unextraordinary. None of the seven samples was markedly superior or terrible. The test affirmed that brand has very little influence on a sauce. The conclusion: focus on seasoning and cook times.
Overall Findings
Differences between samples exist, mainly in acidity, ripeness, and cut, but margins are small. Sweetness and aroma are surprisingly consistent. Despite labels, many cans are not filled with nature's finest.
Italian vs Australian Tomatoes
No meaningful difference in quality, but Australian tins were fruitier. This does not mean sweeter; it is like a generic fruit juice with sugar removed.
Cheap vs Expensive
Little relationship between price and flavour. Some cheap brands had underripe chunks and more skins. Some mid-range brands had similar issues.
Chopped vs Whole Tomatoes
Whole tomatoes were slightly richer straight from the tin, but cooked difference was barely perceptible. Texture varies; some chopped tomatoes have firming agents that prevent breakdown.
Tinned Cherry Tomatoes
No significant difference in sweetness or intensity. Texture is the key difference; whole cherry tomatoes make a thicker sauce but add fibrous skins.
San Marzano Tomatoes
San Marzano tomatoes are expensive but did not stand out. None was voted best. Mutti's version performed no better than its regular tinned tomatoes.
Organic vs Non-Organic
Organic brands were more distinct but not necessarily better or worse. Some had bitterness or metallic flavour.
Notable Products
What I'll Buy
Villa Rossi Diced Tomatoes: Equal highest scorer, slightly sweeter, with highest natural sugar. Enough to end a long-term relationship with Mutti.
SPC Diced Tomatoes: Fruity and acidic, complex sauce. Not for long-cooked high-umami dishes but good for other tomato-based stews.
The Big Brands
Mutti Polpa Finely Chopped Tomatoes: Did not stand out, lacking sweetness and acidity, vegetal and legume-like.
Annalisa Italian Diced Tomatoes: Very high acid, requiring more sugar or bicarb to balance, which changes flavour.
What I Won't Buy
Cirio Polpa Diced Tomatoes: Uncooked has bitter aftertaste, but fades when cooked. Lowest score of the day.
Leggo's Australian Diced Tomatoes: Watery and fibrous, even the tomato bits are chewy.
Ardmona Diced Tomatoes: Large chunks make consistent sauce difficult. Very fruity, paw-paw-like.
