Fans of traditional British cuisine were dismayed by the news that Gentleman's Relish, the pungent anchovy spread created in 1828, has been discontinued by its manufacturer AB World Foods due to falling sales. However, the iconic London restaurant Simpson's in the Strand, which reopened last month under the stewardship of Jeremy King, has stepped in to keep the condiment alive.
King, who has run famed establishments including the Ivy, the Wolseley and Le Caprice, told the Guardian that his chef has created a version of the relish almost identical to the original. “We actually make our own, due to the difficulty in obtaining, so are able to continue to serve it,” he said. Simpson's, known for traditional fare such as spotted dick and roast beef carved from a silver trolley, serves the relish on toast for £6.50.
The spread, a favourite of James Bond author Ian Fleming, was created by English grocer John Osborn in Paris. His mixture of anchovy fillets, rusk, butter and secret herbs and spices was launched in 1828, the same year Simpson's opened. King noted that his chef adapted a classic Victorian recipe for patum peperium, the relish's proper name, and added, “It is similar to mass-produced versions, but dare I say, I prefer it.”
King said the relish has been a popular item on Simpson's menu, with some customers ordering it “with tears in their eyes” after the original was discontinued. He expressed interest in selling it as a takeaway product but noted that would require health and safety packaging and labelling. Meanwhile, Fortnum & Mason continues to produce its own version, priced at £14.95 in a Tiffany blue pot, containing “a whole armada of anchovy, to which we have added dill, garlic and fragrant Sarawak pepper.”
Celebrity cook Nigella Lawson, who once named Gentleman's Relish as one of the ten foods she could not live without, said she loves it on generously buttered toast and described it as “the savoury version of cinnamon toast.” She added that she would now make do with a homemade version, saying, “As long as I have access to anchovies and butter, I am happy.”
