Gentleman's Relish Faces Uncertain Future After 177 Years
The future of Gentleman's Relish, the classic British anchovy spread, hangs in the balance as production has been halted after an impressive 177-year history on supermarket shelves. This pungent paste, officially known as Patum Peperium, has outlasted six monarchs and two world wars, becoming a staple in traditional pantries since its market launch in 1849.
Owners Explore Options Amid Fan Backlash
AB World Foods, the current owners of the relish, have confirmed they are in the early stages of exploring options with several third parties to keep the brand alive. A spokesman for the company told the Times, 'We have been blown away by the response from Gentleman's Relish fans since we confirmed our decision to stop production.' The company is very aware of the strength of feeling among its passionate followers, and whether this sentiment can secure its future rests on upcoming negotiations.
Some of the country's most famous restaurants, including Michelin-starred establishments, rely on the relish, with chefs now attempting to create their own versions to ensure supply. Meanwhile, shoppers have begun stockpiling the spread, and fans have launched petitions and written letters in a bid to reverse the decision.
Marketing Stunt or Genuine Salvage Mission?
The seemingly quick reversal has invited scepticism, with some suggesting the brand may have been strategically withdrawn to drum up interest and nostalgia, similar to marketing masterclasses like Cadbury's Wispa and Heinz Salad Cream. However, evidence indicates the production of Gentleman's Relish was quietly stopped some time before the story was first reported in The Spectator, making the backlash appear more reactive than orchestrated.
This situation seems more like a salvage mission than a stunt. The most likely outcome is a handover rather than a full-scale return under AB Foods, with a licensing arrangement agreed with a third-party producer. This would allow the brand to continue without the burden of in-house manufacture.
Historical Significance and Culinary Impact
Gentleman's Relish was created in 1828 by John Osborn, an English grocer living in Paris, from a mixture of anchovy fillets, rusk, butter, and a secret selection of herbs and spices. He marketed it in 1849 at the Paris Food Show, giving it the mock Latin name Patum Peperium to make it seem distinguished. The paste consists of around 60 per cent anchovy and is typically enjoyed spread on hot buttered toast.
Notable fans include James Bond author Ian Fleming, who would order it at Scott's restaurant in London, served on toast with scrambled egg in a dish known as Scotch woodcock. Celebrity chef Nigella Lawson once named it as one of the ten foods she could not live without, describing it as 'the savoury version of cinnamon toast.'
Chefs and Restaurants Rally to Save the Relish
Tom Brown, whose restaurant was awarded a Michelin star in February, called Gentleman's Relish a national treasure, saying, 'It is such a shame, it is a really versatile British product, like Worcestershire sauce or English mustard. If they aren't going to make it any more, they should release the recipe.' Glynn Purnell, of Michelin-starred restaurants Jessica's and Purnell's, expressed being 'gutted' at the end of the product, noting he used it in dressings, mousses, and glazes.
Jeremy King, who runs famous eateries like the Ivy and the Wolseley, has instructed his chef at Simpson's on the Strand to create a version of the condiment. He said, 'We actually make our own, due to the difficulty in obtaining, so are able to continue to serve it.' Simpson's serves the relish on toast for £6.50, and Fortnum & Mason will reportedly continue to produce and sell a version for £14.95.
Sales Decline and Revival Efforts
Food writer Ameer Kotecha, who wrote the Platinum Jubilee's official cookbook, has started a campaign to save the relish, writing to ABF's chief executive to urge him to release the recipe. He revealed that 750,000 pots were sold per year during its peak in 2000, but sales had declined to just 37,500 pots at the time production was halted—a mere five per cent of the peak figure.
The Spectator, edited by Lord Gove, appears to be playing a significant role in the revival, with reports of 'quiet diplomacy' between the relish's owners and the magazine assisting in advancing negotiations. As fans bid up to £51 for a pot on eBay—compared to less than £5 in shops—the future of this British icon remains uncertain, but hope persists for a comeback through third-party production.
