With only 24 hours to explore Zagreb, a rainy start threatened to dampen the experience. Yet the Croatian capital proved to be a curious little city with more than meets the eye, offering free rides, affordable drinks, and a blend of history and quirkiness.
A Spontaneous City
The trip began with return flights from London Stansted for just £47, a bargain that led to a last-minute visit. While Croatia attracts around 21 million tourists annually, only 1.3 million visit Zagreb, making it a less crowded alternative to the Adriatic coast.
Upon arrival, a tour guide named Helena waved visitors onto the Fulir, an electric golf-buggy designed primarily for the elderly or those with limited mobility, but available to tourists and citizens for free. Running daily from 8am to 8pm, including holidays, the Fulir offers a unique way to see the city.
Helena emphasized spontaneity, saying, 'Stop taking notes. You can re-read all of this information later. In Zagreb, we are in the moment.' She packs her rucksack each morning 'ready to not return until the next,' starting with coffee and ending with a concert in the evening. Her favorite spot is Jazz Cafe, where live music continues into the early hours.
A Great Day Out
The Fulir provides a wonderful overview, with highlights including Ban Jelačić Square, where markets bustle despite the rain, and Cvjetni Square, home to an attractive bell tower. At Zrinjevac Park, signs of the 2020 earthquake that killed two and injured 27 are still visible, with Helena noting, 'We are still rebuilding.'
A short walk away is the Art Pavilion, a palatial yellow structure hosting gallery exhibitions and Croatian National Theatre Ballet rehearsals. For a different experience, the Orient Express bar is styled like the iconic train, with wood fittings, leather upholstered seats, and golden age trinkets.
The Upper Town
Tkalčićeva, a pedestrian street following the old Medveščak stream, offers a mishmash of colorful buildings, restaurants, and shops. It honors Marija Jurić Zagorka, Croatia's first female journalist and a fierce advocate for women's rights, with a statue.
The Upper Town retains medieval architecture, including the Cravat Regiment marching in traditional dress, the Grič Cannon firing from Lotrščak Tower at midday, and the Stone Gate (built in 1242) housing a shrine to the Virgin Mary. The Zagreb Card (€38 for 24 hours or €48 for 72 hours) provides free public transport and admission to attractions like the Zagreb City Museum and the Museum of Broken Relationships, which displays relics from failed romances, including a fridge with a slice of birthday cake of unknown expiry.
The day concluded with a ride on the world's shortest funicular, a 66-metre jaunt taking less than 60 seconds. Even in the rain, Zagreb put a smile on the visitor's face.
The Essentials
Direct flights to Zagreb are available from several UK airports, including Manchester, Birmingham, Newcastle, Edinburgh, and London Stansted, with one-way fares from £16 in September on Ryanair. Accommodation options include Tia Apartments and Rooms (from £59/€69 per night), Novotel Zagreb (from £87/€102 per night), and Esplanade Zagreb Hotel (from £120/€140 per night).
