San Lorenzo, a working-class quarter of Rome built in the late 19th century, offers an alternative to the overcrowded tourist hotspots. While central Rome saw a record 22.9 million arrivals in 2025 — driven partly by the Vatican Jubilee — a 20-minute walk from Termini station in the opposite direction leads to this overlooked neighbourhood.
Why go now
Central Rome increasingly resembles a tube station at rush hour, but San Lorenzo remains relatively quiet. The area has a history of resistance: during Mussolini's rise, locals and the Arditi del Popolo fought fascist incursions in the 1922 battle of San Lorenzo. Barricades were erected during the March on Rome, and although 13 were killed, fascists never fully controlled the neighbourhood, which became known as the red zone. Allied bombing in WWII killed about 1,500 residents and destroyed large parts of the area. Today, students from nearby La Sapienza University mingle with artists and longtime residents, preserving a working-class, leftwing identity despite recent developments such as Soho House and Social Hub.
Where to eat and drink
Sticky menus and carbonara over €10 are rare. Pizzeria Formula 1 has served Roman-style thin-crust pizza since 1978, with classic toppings like margherita, priced rarely over €10 per head. Osteria da Marcello, a family-run fixture since 1961, serves typical Roman dishes like stewed tripe, carciofi alla giudia, cacio e pepe, and braised oxtail on paper-covered tables. Nena Mercato e Cucina, run by actor Cristiano Caccamo and Lorenzo Biancolella, offers trendy but unpretentious dishes like duck fettuccine with parmesan foam and carbonara with truffles. For dessert, Gelato San Lorenzo provides flavours from avocado, lemon and pepper to classic strawberry. SAID dal 1923, a 103-year-old chocolate factory, sells handmade pralines and truffles; in autumn, its hot chocolate is especially popular. Piazza dell’Immacolata becomes an informal living room in the evening, with students drinking beer and wine. Ramnes, a tiny wine bar, serves local wines like Bellone and reds from Abruzzo.
Cultural experiences
The Basilica of St Lawrence Outside the Walls, built around the tomb of the neighbourhood's namesake, is one of the Seven Pilgrim Churches of Rome and houses relics of St Stephen. The original church was destroyed by allied bombing in 1943; the current facade was rebuilt from rubble. The tree-lined Verano Monumental cemetery (Il Verano) spans 83 hectares with Jewish, Catholic and Protestant sections, a WWI monument, and graves of actors Alberto Sordi, Bud Spencer and Gigi Proietti. Street art defines San Lorenzo: notable works include Marina Biagini and Elisa Caracciolo's Murale contro il Femminicidio (2012-13), with 107 figures representing femicide victims, and Alice Pasquini's block-long mural on Via dei Sabelli. Street art tours are common. The Fondazione Pastificio Cerere, a former pasta factory turned cultural centre since the 1970s, hosts contemporary art exhibitions. Independent galleries like Collettivo noMade and Monti8 contribute to the artistic ecosystem.
Where to shop
Alternative and vintage clothing dominate. Secondhand shops include Latini 34, with boldly coloured trenck coats and shoes. Laboratorio Pellerossa offers artisanal leather goods, and L’Anatra all’Arancia sells handpicked garments from unknown designers. Music lovers can find vinyl at Ultrasuoni Records Roma.
Don’t miss
Giardino Verano, an open-air space near Il Verano, hosts a summer festival from June to October with free concerts, an outdoor cinema, drinks and games until 2am.
Where to stay
Plush hotels are scarce. Ateneo Garden Palace offers doubles from €188 with a courtyard and spacious rooms. The newly opened Social Hub (doubles from €250) has onsite restaurants and a rooftop pool with bar.
