A journalist embarked on an experiment to experience Cambodia at opposite ends of the spectrum, starting at one of the country's grandest hotels, then swapping Egyptian cotton sheets for a sleeping bag in the jungle, and ending the trip on an idyllic private island.
The Living Museum
The experiment began in Phnom Penh at Raffles Hotel Le Royal. After landing at the city's gleaming new $2 billion Techo International Airport, stepping through the hotel's gates felt like travelling much further back in time. Uniformed staff greeted the journalist by name before they had even climbed out of the car, while a porter whisked away a suitcase on a red carpet.
Opened in 1929, Raffles has spent almost a century welcoming royalty, diplomats, writers and Hollywood's finest. Jacqueline Kennedy stayed here during her famous visit to Cambodia in 1967, and Charles de Gaulle was among the many dignitaries to have passed through its doors. The room overlooked the gardens and came complete with artisan gin in the minibar, luxurious Sodashi toiletries and a comfortable bed. Downstairs, the Elephant Bar is where the famous Femme Fatale cocktail was created for Jackie O, and the hotel also offers crispy fried crickets.
Forest Floors and 4am Wake-Up Calls
The following morning, the journalist met a guide from Lina Smile Tours and headed towards Mount Aural, Cambodia's highest peak at 1,813 metres. The contrast was significant, with muddy trails, river crossings and dense rainforest replacing the polished floors and air conditioning. Unlike Cambodia's famous temple circuit, there were no other tourists on the trek, just the occasional monk.
Because of the schedule, the journalist tackled the entire 30-kilometre route in a single day. As darkness began to fall, they reached a campsite where tents were pitched beneath towering trees and dinner was cooked over an open fire. The journalist noted no phone signal, no cocktails, and no room service, just the occasional rustle from the surrounding forest. The only downside was a cockerel outside the tent that decided 4am was the perfect time for a wake-up call. The following morning, an early start rewarded them with sunrise over Cambodia's highest mountains as mist drifted through the valleys below.
Modern Indulgence
A few hours later, the journalist ventured down south by taxi and boarded a private speedboat bound for Six Senses Krabey Island. The private island resort is hidden among tropical forest just off the southern coastline, with villas tucked discreetly among the trees and complete with their own private infinity pools. Within minutes of arriving, one of the island's resident monkeys wandered past the terrace.
After sleeping in a tent the previous night, the resort's spectacular spa felt less like an indulgence and more like a necessity. The 2,000-square-metre wellness centre features treatment rooms, a yoga pavilion, gym, sauna and steam room. The journalist combined sauna sessions with a spot of yoga, followed by a massage. One evening they tucked into a fragrant mushroom and coconut curry made using mushrooms grown on the island itself. The following night it was perfectly cooked Cambodian lobster at AHA, the resort's signature restaurant.
Which Was Worth It?
Each experience offered something completely different. Raffles immersed the journalist in Cambodia's rich history and timeless elegance, the mountain camp delivered the kind of adventure money can't buy, and Six Senses was a reminder that sometimes slowing down is the greatest luxury of all. The biggest takeaway was that you don't have to limit yourself to one experience.
