Restaurant Biedronka, chef Marek Dziedzic's first restaurant, opens in County Durham this Thursday, introducing local diners to the food he enjoyed growing up in Poland. The tasting menu features dumplings, sausage, and 'farmer's cheese', appealing to those craving comfort food as the weather turns cold.
Biedronka, meaning 'ladybird' in Polish, takes over The Farmhouse, a standalone stone property in the grounds of South Causey Inn with open views of Beamish Valley countryside. The property was vacated in the summer by Hjem, where Marek worked before that restaurant's residency ended. Now he has the opportunity to showcase his culinary talents, along with the flavours of the Polish countryside he left several years ago.
A Tasting Menu of Polish and Seasonal British Flavours
Marek is enthusiastic about sharing new tastes and ingredients in his inspired take on traditional dishes, which also make the most of seasonal British produce. Diners can choose from between four and seven courses on the tasting menu, which has four sections: snacks; starters and dumplings; seafood and meat; and desserts.
During a visit ahead of opening day, the meal began with bread and smalec - pork fat seasoned with onions, garlic, and apples, to be spread on bread after butter and topped with home-made pickles to cut through the fatty taste. This turned out to be a taste sensation and one of the favourite parts of the meal. The dining companion, who would never have chosen it, found it delicious.
Dumplings, Sausages, and Surprise Hits
The dumplings and sausages are different to what is usual. A slice each of four dried Polish sausages, accompanied by cornichons and silverskin onions, had much flavour and texture. A pastrami dish was another new try and a surprise hit, with cavalo nero, anchovy, and Parmesan adding to a myriad of flavours, none overpowering.
Pierogi Ruskie was another favourite - a wide variety of dumplings, including a dessert version, will be on the menu. The farmer's cheese combined with potato fills the dumplings, whose dressing of brown butter, herbs, and breadcrumbs added saltiness and extra depth. Marek, whose brother was over from Poland to help the kitchen team, talks with passion about his grandmother's version of Pierogi Ruskie, a Poland staple served regularly and often in even bigger portions.
A Feast of Surprising Flavours
A colourful fish dish featured brill with Shetland mussels, cider, orange roe, green oil, haricot beans, and grilled lettuce. The multi-course menu, which the restaurant says will change to reflect seasons, availability, and inspiration, is full of surprise flavours - pickles more sweet than sharp, and even mushrooms had a unique flavour.
Other dishes, served on different country-style-pattern crockery, included Lindisfarne oyster topped with cucumber and sorrel jelly, which the guest didn't manage, and roasted duck breast with red cabbage and beetroot, accompanied by a separate plate containing a duck leg-filled dumpling. The meal included a sparkling wine, then a glass of orange wine from a wide drinks menu, recommended by serving staff who described each dish in detail.
A sorbet was served, and despite no room for dessert, a warm baked chocolate soufflé with sour cream ice cream was irresistible. The individual portions were far too big but chocolaty perfection. The sour cream ice cream was another taste combination never tried before, and it worked.
Restaurant Biedronka is an exciting new addition, offering diners a journey of discovery. From October 1, it will offer two dinner servings, starting at £65 for four courses, from Wednesday to Saturday, plus lunch at weekends.
