A Palestinian supper club in north London has become a focal point of tension amid the Israel-Gaza war, as its owners use food to raise funds for aid while a nearby chain faces vandalism over alleged corporate ties to Israel.
Faten and Mahmoud run the supper club at Cafe Metro, a small Palestinian-owned cafe that has existed since the 1980s. Their events, which feature traditional dishes like maqluba and homemade falafels, sell out weeks in advance, with proceeds supporting the hungry and homeless in Gaza. Faten, who moved to London in 2014, says cooking her mother's recipes helps her feel connected to her family in Gaza, who now live in a refugee camp.
The cafe's location has seen an influx of chain stores in recent years, including Costa Coffee, Starbucks, and Greggs. Most recently, a branch of the upmarket bakery Gail's opened two doors down. Critics accuse Gail's of accelerating gentrification, and campaigners note its parent company, Bain Capital, invests in Israeli security firms. Gail's describes itself as a British business with no specific foreign government ties.
Days before its opening, Gail's was daubed with red paint, and its windows were later smashed. Slogans reading 'reject corporate Zionism' and 'fuck Bain Capital' were left on the walls. No arrests have been made. The Board of Deputies of British Jews condemned the vandalism as part of a trend to drive Jews out of civil society. The local Palestine Solidarity Campaign denied involvement.
Mahmoud, the cafe owner, distanced himself from the attacks, saying he competes legally. 'Our cappuccino is £2.95 and theirs is £4.50. That's how we compete,' he said. The incident highlights how a local business has become embroiled in a global conflict, reflecting deep divisions in the community.
