Experts have warned that banned biological products derived from human cells are being used in UK beauty clinics, posing serious health risks. The treatments, known as exosome facials and microneedling, are marketed as anti-ageing remedies and can cost hundreds of pounds per session.
Exosomes are tiny membrane packages containing proteins, lipids and DNA fragments released by cells. While some clinics use plant or salmon testicle cell formulations, others appear to use exosomes from human umbilical cord blood or other human cells, breaching UK and EU regulations.
Dr James Edgar, a cell biologist at the University of Cambridge, expressed alarm at the use of human cell-derived products. “These are human biologics and there’s a risk for disease transmission,” he said. Scientists also note that exosomes cannot be reliably separated from viruses, as they share similar size and physical properties.
An investigation found several UK clinics offering such treatments. Alison Miller Skincare & Aesthetics in Devon advertised a £380 exosome facial, claiming exosomes were “ethically harvested from consenting human donors”. After being contacted, the clinic removed the page and said it did not offer the treatment. Elen Rivas Beauty Clinic in London offers a £350 microneedling session using a product derived from umbilical cord blood stem cells, but did not respond to inquiries.
Dev Patel, who runs Perfect Skin Solutions in Portsmouth, previously offered human-derived exosome treatments but withdrew them after learning they were banned in Europe. He now uses an approved salmon testicle cell product. Patel called for tighter regulation of the cosmetics industry, which he described as “riddled with poor practice”.
