A reader's request for a meat-free spaghetti carbonara led our resident perfectionist to crack the culinary conundrum of replicating the salty, chewy pork bits without the meat. While classic carbonara relies on guanciale or pancetta and cheese, the challenge was to find a substitute that delivers the same savoury, umami character.
Early attempts included fried halloumi, which lacked the deep pork flavour, and sun-dried tomatoes marinated in soy sauce and liquid smoke, which tasted too distinctly tomatoey. Carrot 'bacon' strips proved overly sweet, but shiitake mushrooms with smoked paprika and liquid smoke worked better.
The winning substitute, however, was king oyster mushrooms. Their mild flavour and firm stems can be cut into lardon-sized pieces and sautéed in oil until golden brown, retaining a juicy texture. Adding a dash of soy sauce for umami, garlic, and smoked paprika helps maintain the illusion of meat, as the smoky flavour evokes meatiness without actual smoking.
For the egg and cheese sauce in a vegan version, further experimentation is needed, but the mushroom approach offers a satisfying start. The key is not to skimp on oil, as mushrooms need it to replicate the fat content of guanciale.
