Helen Graham's Hawaij-Spiced Roast Carrots with Mango Labneh and Mint Salsa
Helen Graham's culinary creations feature hawaij-spiced roast carrots paired with mango labneh and a refreshing mint salsa. This dish highlights the bold, lively, and versatile flavours of the Yemeni spice mix, which beautifully enhances the natural earthiness of roasted vegetables.
The Versatile Yemeni Spice Mix
Hawaij is a traditional Yemeni spice blend that Graham discovered during her tenure at London's Palomar restaurant. It has since become a permanent fixture in her spice collection. The mix typically includes turmeric, black pepper, cardamom, and ground coriander, imparting an earthy and vegetal taste. Traditionally used in soups and stews, hawaij is also a key ingredient in zhoug, a spicy coriander and chilli sauce. Graham describes it as one of the most enlivening and adaptable spice mixes available, recommending it as an essential kitchen companion.
Harissa Roast Carrots with Mango Labneh and Mint Salsa
This recipe combines harissa roast carrots with mango labneh and a zesty mint salsa. Mango chutney serves as a wonder ingredient, adding robust, spiced fruitiness when stirred into labneh for a highly delicious combination. If preparing labneh from scratch, note that it requires overnight chilling and yields leftovers perfect for sandwiches.
Preparation Time: 10 minutes
Chilling Time: Overnight
Cooking Time: 40 minutes
Serves: 4
Ingredients:
- 1kg carrots, peeled and left whole
- For the labneh (makes 600g): 950g 5% fat Greek yoghurt, 1 tsp fine salt
- For the hawaij (makes 6 tbsp): 2 tbsp black peppercorns, 2 tbsp cumin seeds, 10 cloves, 1 tbsp coriander seeds, 1 tbsp ground turmeric, ¼ tsp ground cardamom
- For the marinade: 2 tbsp olive oil, 1 tbsp harissa, 1 tbsp date syrup, ½ tsp fine salt
- For the mint salsa: 2 tsp nigella seeds, 2 tsp hawaij, 6 tbsp olive oil, finely grated zest of 1 unwaxed lime plus 2 tbsp juice, 3 tbsp finely chopped mint, 1 tsp fine salt
- For the mango labneh: 300g labneh, 2 tbsp mango chutney, ⅛ tsp ground turmeric
Method:
- The night before, whisk yoghurt and salt in a bowl until combined. Set a colander over another bowl, line with a clean tea towel, add yoghurt mix, fold towel over, place a heavy bowl on top, and chill overnight. Decant labneh into a container the next day.
- Heat oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7 and line a tray with nonstick baking paper.
- Make hawaij mix by blitzing peppercorns, cumin seeds, cloves, and coriander seeds to a fine powder in a spice grinder. Stir in turmeric and cardamom, then transfer to a jar.
- Whisk marinade ingredients in a bowl. Place carrots on the tray, pour marinade over, and mix by hand until evenly coated. Roast for 25-30 minutes, turning once, until carrots are golden and knife-tender.
- Meanwhile, stir salsa ingredients in a bowl. For mango labneh, mix all ingredients in another bowl.
- Spread labneh on a serving dish, pile carrots on top, spoon over mint salsa, and serve.
Hawaij Roast Potatoes with Preserved Lemon and Roast Shallots
This dish showcases hawaij's ability to elevate roast potatoes, giving them a striking golden hue. Roast shallots can be prepared ahead and scattered over the potatoes just before serving, warmed by residual heat.
Preparation Time: 15 minutes
Cooking Time: 1 hour 15 minutes
Serves: 4-6
Ingredients:
- 2kg Maris Piper potatoes, peeled and cut into 4cm chunks
- ½ tbsp fine salt, plus extra for boiling
- 150ml olive oil
- 1 tbsp hawaij
- For the roast shallots: 600g banana shallots, peeled and halved lengthways, 2 tbsp olive oil, ½ tsp fine salt, 1 garlic clove, peeled and finely grated, 30g parsley, finely chopped, 2 tbsp lemon juice, 120g preserved lemon, finely chopped
Method:
- Heat oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Boil potatoes in salted water for 11-12 minutes until knife-tender. Drain and steam-dry for 10 minutes.
- Meanwhile, toss shallots, oil, and salt in a roasting tin. Roast for 12 minutes until golden and soft. Cool for 15 minutes, then toss with remaining shallot ingredients.
- Heat olive oil in a large roasting tin in the oven for 10 minutes until smoking. Shake potatoes in a colander to rough up edges. Carefully add potatoes to hot oil, sprinkle with salt and hawaij, and toss to coat. Roast for 40 minutes, tossing once, until golden and crisp.
- Transfer potatoes to a serving dish with a slotted spoon, scatter over roast shallot mixture, and serve.
These recipes are adapted from Centrepiece: Bold, Vibrant Recipes to Put Vegetables in the Spotlight by Helen Graham, published by Hamlyn at £28. For ordering details, visit guardianbookshop.com.



