There is a particular moment between the first asparagus spears and the reappearance of herbs that actually taste of something when cooking begins to feel lighter again. Not in the joyless January sense of restraint, but in the way a plate can be both fresh and deeply satisfying – lemon sharpened, greens piled high, butter used with intent rather than apology.
Pasta does most of the heavy lifting here. Orecchiette is tossed with prawns, courgettes and a muddle of mint and basil – quick, bright, and exactly the sort of thing you want to eat on a Tuesday when the sun is still pretending it might stick around. Trofie, meanwhile, is slicked with wild garlic pesto and studded with roasted potatoes and purple sprouting broccoli, a dish that feels quietly impressive without trying too hard.
Elsewhere, things lean more pointedly seasonal. Asparagus arrives properly dressed, courtesy of Paul Ainsworth, with a saline hit of seaweed butter and a chopped egg salad that turns a simple bunch of spears into something approaching a centrepiece. And because spring in Britain is never just about greens, there are carrot-spiked hot cross buns too – soft, spiced and unapologetically generous with their cream cheese butter.
Lauren Hoffman’s trofie with wild garlic pesto and purple sprouting broccoli is a vibrant twist on a Ligurian classic. Quick enough for a weeknight but impressive enough that people might think you planned it. Don’t worry if wild garlic isn’t in season – a bunch of basil and a clove of garlic will do the job. The charm is in the sauce, so use any pasta you like.
This vibrant asparagus with seaweed butter and chopped egg salad was created by Paul Ainsworth, chef-patron of Michelin-starred Padstow restaurant Paul Ainsworth at No 6, and author of For The Love Of Food. “This is a really versatile dish that works as a starter, a light main or a side to a family barbecue or main course. The seaweed (also known as sea veg) brings a silky, savoury note that dials up the natural sweetness of the asparagus.”
