Chef Jad Youssef Takes a Stand for Authentic Lebanese Cuisine
In an era where social media food trends often overshadow tradition, Lebanese chef Jad Youssef is drawing a line in the sand. With dishes like chocolate hummus and beetroot falafel gaining popularity, Youssef expresses deep concern that Lebanese food is losing its identity. Born in Lebanon in 1977 and now based in Surrey, where he runs his restaurant Lebnani, Youssef has witnessed this culinary drift firsthand across the UK, Europe, and even his homeland.
The Problem with Modern Twists
Youssef points to influencers promoting unconventional recipes, such as meat shawarma with halloumi or baked falafel with sweet potato, as examples of how classic dishes are being altered to fit Western palates. "It doesn't make me angry, but makes me sad," he admits, emphasising that these changes dilute the essence of Lebanese culinary traditions. For instance, he clarifies that true baba ghanouj should contain charred aubergine with vegetables like garlic, parsley, and mint—no tahini—whereas many restaurants serve mtabbal instead.
A Return to Roots with 'Lebnani'
To counter this trend, Youssef has released his debut cookbook, also titled 'Lebnani', which means "to be Lebanese." The book focuses on simple, proper recipes passed down through generations, from his mother and aunties to his sisters. It includes traditional dishes like hummus, kafta, tabbouleh, and knefe—a sweet cheese pastry that, he insists, should never include corn flakes. "I want to focus on the classics and tradition, and make them the right way," Youssef explains, highlighting that Lebanese cuisine offers over 200 mezze dishes, many seasonal and lesser-known in the West.
Recipes Rooted in Memory and War
Youssef's culinary journey is deeply personal, shaped by the Lebanese Civil War that began when he was two. As the youngest of six siblings, he helped his mother with cooking and his father in a Beirut pastry shop, learning to select quality ingredients from daily market trips. "I was born surrounded by food," he recalls, noting that food served as a uniting force during turmoil. This upbringing instilled in him a passion for authentic, ingredient-driven cooking, free from shortcuts or swaps.
Sample Recipes from 'Lebnani'
The cookbook features detailed recipes that embody Youssef's philosophy. For example:
- Atayef (Stuffed Lebanese Pancakes): A treat often enjoyed during Ramadan, these pancakes are filled with ashta (clotted cream) and drizzled with orange blossom syrup, representing simple Lebanese hospitality.
- Hummus Beiruti: A vibrant version from Beirut, made with garlic confit and charred chilli for a smoky, lemony flavour, emphasising smooth texture and fresh ingredients.
- Bazella b'lahmé (Lamb and Pea Stew): A beloved family dish across Lebanon, featuring tender lamb, sweet peas, and carrots in a rich tomato broth, often served with rice and fresh coriander.
Youssef's mission is clear: to preserve the beauty and tradition of Lebanese dishes against fleeting trends. As he puts it, "OK, it's good to be creative—but don't ruin the tradition." His cookbook, 'Lebnani' (Meze, £28), serves as a heartfelt guide to cooking these recipes exactly as they should be, honouring a rich culinary heritage that deserves to be celebrated in its authentic form.
