A clinical program manager at the Butterfly Foundation says there has been a rise in patients showing ‘appearance-related distress’, including a ‘heightened focus on skin’, particularly among young people. The term “cosmeticorexia” has entered the lexicon, describing a preoccupation with flawless skin. Italian authorities recently cracked down on beauty brands targeting younger shoppers, citing cosmeticorexia as a concern. Researchers from Italy published a paper suggesting cosmeticorexia may be a clinically relevant mental disorder, requiring further study.
Rise of the ‘Sephora Kids’
Sephora stores are increasingly overrun with tweens testing products, and eight-year-olds film themselves applying collagen serums and retinol creams. Party bags now contain face masks and headbands instead of traditional toys. This trend has experts worried about age-inappropriate product use and increased focus on appearance at a critical age.
What is Cosmeticorexia?
Associate Prof Giovanni Damiani, a dermatologist at the University of Milan, noticed a rise in irritant and allergic contact dermatitis on children aged 8-14, linked to cosmetic use. Patients also displayed behaviors like refusing to go out without makeup and excessive watching of cosmetic videos. Damiani teamed with psychologist Alberto Stefana to study cosmeticorexia, also called dermorexia.
Grace Collinson, from the Butterfly Foundation, notes a rise in appearance-related distress among young people, including heightened focus on skin and perceived imperfections. However, she warns that non-clinical labels like cosmeticorexia may medicalize behaviors that are not disorders, or dilute serious conditions like body dysmorphic disorder.
Expert Opinions
Dr Jasmine Fardouly, a senior lecturer at the University of Sydney, says new medicalized terms can cause confusion if symptoms match known disorders. She points out that body dysmorphic disorder often involves excessive concern about facial features and is common in teenagers. Children as young as six report body image concerns.
Dr Deshan Sebaratnam, a dermatologist at the University of New South Wales, believes cosmeticorexia is a “new mutation of an old problem” and may be a pop culture term for body dysmorphic disorder. He notes that social media, filters, and AI contribute to unrealistic beauty standards.
Influence of Social Media
Collinson emphasizes that the issue is societal, with influencer marketing and targeted advertising magnifying perceived flaws and monetizing them. Young people are taught to fear aging and imperfections before they even begin, and are sold expensive products to achieve acceptance.
Fifteen-year-old Erin from Sydney watches skincare videos despite Australia’s social media ban. She buys products based on influencers and never goes to school without makeup. She does not believe she has cosmeticorexia, just a normal obsession. Many parents recall their own youthful skincare routines, expressing limited concern.
Fardouly notes that over 50% of young people are unhappy with their looks, and up to 90% have some concern. Being unhappy with appearance is normal to an extent, but excessive preoccupation warrants help-seeking.
Future Research
The Italian researchers are conducting three more studies to understand cosmeticorexia. Their first study found that those with cosmeticorexia were highly dependent on social media. In Australia, the Butterfly Foundation offers support. In the UK, the BDD Foundation provides help, and in the US, the International OCD Foundation offers information on body dysmorphic disorder.
