MasterChef judge Grace Dent said her 'lifespan decreased with each mouthful' in a review of Bullgogi, a recently-opened Korean restaurant in Manchester city centre. The food critic and broadcaster visited the venue on Piccadilly Plaza for her latest review in The Guardian.
Bullgogi's opening and concept
The restaurant opened in the former Marks & Spencer unit in September and was hailed at the time as the 'UK's largest Korean BBQ restaurant'. It comes from the same team behind viral Korean street food brand Bunsik, which recently reopened its Piccadilly Gardens spot after a month-long closure. Guests can choose to cook their own meals at tabletop grills or order prepared dishes.
Dent's review highlights
In her review, Dent hailed the restaurant's 'highly decent' food offering as being 'serious' with its choice of Jjigae stews, fried rice dishes, noodles, and BBQ meats. She complimented her choice of the 'crisp and crimp' Korean vegetarian dumplings, the seafood sundubu jjigae broth, and the 'highly decent' chicken dolsot bibimbap. However, she added that her 'lifespan decreased with each mouthful' of the cheese potato pancake full of melted mozzarella and deep-fried potato.
Digital ordering and ambiance
Dent also spoke about how the 165-cover venue relies on digital interactive screens and mounted tablets to take orders, describing it as feeling 'more like a 1990s service station than a restaurant' and having 'Blade Runner vibes'. She compared it to drive-thrus which have seen their models rolled out into more restaurants.
Bullgogi's background
Named by blending 'Bull', a symbol of strength and vitality, with Gogi, the Korean word for meat, the Manchester restaurant is the second Bullgogi after the first in London's Notting Hill opened in 2019. Led by South Korean-born chef Hans Boo, Bullgogi also serves a Hansang lunch set menu featuring a rice soup dish alongside side dishes. There is also the choice to order a Ssambap Hansang lunch, where guests are encouraged to fill a fresh lettuce leaf with meats, kimchi and more.
Jae Cho, Founder of owners Maguro Group, said at the time of opening: "Manchester has embraced Korean food with such enthusiasm since Bunsik opened in 2023. Korean BBQ is all about gathering around the table, cooking together, and enjoying the moment - it is fun, sociable, and delicious."
Bullgogi is on Piccadilly Plaza, Manchester M1 4AH.
