At 40 Maltby Street, the rattle of trains overhead adds to the charm rather than detracting from it. Ben Lippett discovers a restaurant that has evolved from a wine warehouse into a destination for clean, seasonal cooking and an exceptional wine list, favouring small producers and natural bottles. With no reservations, the experience offers spontaneity and a convivial buzz.
First Impressions and the Wait
Arriving without a booking, Lippett was offered a glass of icy cool "Glow Glow" chardonnay at the bar while waiting for a table. The front-of-house team adeptly managed the dining room, moving tables outside on request to take advantage of the balmy evening. The chalkboard menus, one of two giant boards, feature familiar yet stimulating pairings that make seasonal sense.
The Opening Gambit
The meal began with raw trout dressed in olive oil and lemon juice, accompanied by nose-tickling horseradish cream and peppery radishes for crunch. Complimentary baguette and butter arrived alongside a spectacular pork terrine, perfectly seasoned and wrapped in pork belly with a mosaic of shoulder meat, fat, and green peppercorns, topped with a sweet-and-sour pickled prune.
Wine and Mains
Moving outside, Lippett ordered a bottle of Galician orange wine, a blend of Palomino and Doña Blanca described as having "structure" and "underlying salinity." The staff guided him deftly, making the experience accessible even for non-wine enthusiasts. The mains included a bowl of peas grilled in their shells, served in salty butter with fresh and stewed mint and lemon, requiring diners to pry out the sweet peas from their pods. A courgette salad with coarsely grated Scottish cheese Corra Linn followed, showcasing the kitchen's careful supplier selection. The savoury crescendo was a sensational chicken schnitzel with a shard of pancetta, matchsticked kohlrabi with tangy mustard dressing, and creamed broad beans underneath.
Dessert and Final Thoughts
The meal concluded with a warm apricot and marzipan tart paired with cool crème fraîche, and vanilla beignets with whipped cream, raspberries, and jam. Lippett reflected on the experience, noting the smart cooking with no broken rules but impeccable execution. He declared he would gladly move in, trains roaring overhead, as long as the food and wine keep flowing.
What Others Say
Nathan Leong praised the restaurant on social media: "A perfect lunch — chicken, bacon and hazelnut terrine, a glass of pink, baguette and butter — on a pristine May day at @40maltbystreet, my favourite spot in the city for over a decade." Mai Eats Food shared: "Sooo as you may have seen on my stories, this is going to be the year of wine bars for me... starting this year off on a high, I visited @40maltbystreet." Ru simply said: "Great place, lovely staff, tasty food and super wine."
