Felicity Cloake's quest for the perfect chicken souvlaki explores variations of Greece's most popular street food, from marinades to cooking techniques and accompaniments. The name souvlaki comes from the word 'souvla' (skewer), and it typically involves small skewers of grilled meat or vegetables.
Choosing the Meat
Pork and chicken are the most popular choices, though lamb souvlaki is increasingly available. For meat-free options, halloumi or mushroom versions exist. Chicken thigh is recommended over breast due to its higher fat content, which keeps the meat juicier. Chunks of about 3cm are ideal for even cooking.
Marinade Options
Various chefs offer different marinade approaches. Akis Petretzikis uses a brine with lemon juice, bay leaves, parsley, thyme, garlic, pepper, and honey, but some testers found the texture slightly rubbery. Georgina Hayden uses a yoghurt-based marinade with garlic, lemon zest, and olive oil, which softens the chicken in just 30 minutes. Stuart Ralston's marinade includes garlic, smoked paprika, cumin, garlic powder, coriander, cinnamon, fresh oregano, mint, and dill, without acidic tenderizers, and is left overnight. Theo Michaels keeps it simple with lemon juice and zest, garlic, smoked paprika, and olive oil. Cloake's preferred marinade uses salt, garlic, oregano, and lemon zest mixed with oil for 30 minutes.
Cooking Methods
Cooking on metal skewers is essential for even heat conduction. Traditional charcoal grilling is ideal, but a hot griddle pan works well. Ralston's method of roasting skewers upright in a hot oven, stuck into half an onion, replicates vertical rotisserie cooking. Cloake recommends oiling the griddle pan and turning the meat regularly to avoid burning.
Accompaniments
In northern Greece, souvlaki is served straight up, while in Athens and the south, it comes wrapped in pitta with salad and sauces. Cypriot pittas are thinner and pocket-like, while Greek pittas are thicker and fluffier. Common toppings include tzatziki, ripe tomatoes, cucumber, shredded cabbage, red onion, and sometimes feta or pickled chillies. Chilli sauce is also popular.
Perfect Chicken Souvlaki Recipe
Prep: 15 min | Marinate: 30 min | Cook: 15 min | Serves 2 (easily doubled)
Ingredients: 4 skinless, boneless chicken thighs, salt, 1 unwaxed lemon, 1 tsp dried oregano, 1 garlic clove (crushed), oil for greasing, 1 wedge white or red cabbage (optional), 1/4 red onion, 1 ripe tomato, 1/6 cucumber, 2 pittas or flatbreads, chilli sauce, tzatziki (optional).
Method: Cut chicken into 3cm cubes, sprinkle with salt. Mix lemon zest with oregano, garlic, and 1 tbsp oil, stir into chicken. Cover and leave at room temperature for 30 minutes. Light barbecue or oil griddle pan. Finely shred cabbage and sprinkle with salt; slice onion and squeeze lemon juice over. Thread chicken onto metal skewers. Grill for 15-18 minutes, turning, until cooked through. Rest. Toss cabbage and onion. Slice tomato into wedges; deseed cucumber and cut into half-moons. Sprinkle pittas with water and heat on grill. Serve with accompaniments.
