Ravinder Bhogal offers three autumn squash recipes: a pumpkin and miso congee with chilli oil, a pot-roasted chicken with kabocha squash and sage, and fudgy pumpkin pie cookies. The recipes celebrate the nutty flavour and creamy texture of seasonal squash and pumpkin, which can be used in both sweet and savoury dishes.
Choosing and using autumn squash
Bhogal notes that while shops are full of pumpkins and squash, most varieties are interchangeable. Her favourites are kabocha, crown prince and delicata, chosen for their deeply nutty flavour and creamy texture, and because they hold their shape well when roasted or braised. She also suggests that anyone carving a pumpkin for Halloween should not waste the flesh, but chop it up and add it to a risotto.
Pumpkin and miso congee with chilli oil
Congee is a comfort food eaten across Asia, often for breakfast. This version is not particularly traditional, but it makes the most of pumpkin season. Bhogal recommends serving it with a drizzle of chilli oil as a contrast to the delicata’s natural sweetness.
For the congee, prepare 600g delicata pumpkin, peeled and chopped into bite-size chunks, plus 6 wedges; 3 tbsp avocado oil or neutral oil; sea salt and black pepper; 1 heaped tbsp white miso; 2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped; 1 tbsp crushed ginger; 200g short-grain white rice; 1 piece kombu; and 1 bunch spring onions, trimmed and sliced on the diagonal. For the garnish, use 3 tbsp toasted pumpkin seeds, a few drops of sesame oil, and chilli oil.
Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Lay the pumpkin on a baking sheet, drizzle with one tablespoon of oil and season. Roast for 30-40 minutes until very soft and caramelised, then leave to cool. Set aside the squash wedges, then puree the remaining chunks in a food processor with a splash of water.
In a large saucepan, heat the remaining oil on a medium heat, add the miso and cook, stirring, until lightly caramelised. Add the garlic and ginger, and stir until fragrant. Add the rice, kombu and 1.8 litres of water and bring to a boil on medium-high heat. Partially cover, turn down to a low simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, for 25-30 minutes, until the liquid has reduced and the rice is plump and has turned into a porridge. Stir in the pumpkin puree and half the sliced spring onions.
Divide the congee between six bowls and top each portion with a wedge of roast squash. Garnish with the remaining spring onions, then finish with toasted pumpkin seeds, a drizzle of sesame oil and your favourite chilli oil.
Chicken with kabocha squash and sage
This dish makes a wonderful alternative autumnal Sunday roast, with minimal washing-up because it is all cooked in one pan.
For this recipe, you will need sea salt and black pepper; 1 whole chicken (about 1½kg); 1 whole garlic bulb, cut in half horizontally; 1 unwaxed lemon, halved; 1 bunch sage; 2 bay leaves; 2 tbsp olive oil; ½ tsp dried chilli flakes; 1 tsp ground cinnamon; 1 small kabocha squash (about 750g), unpeeled and cut into wedges; 150ml dry white wine; 800ml chicken stock; and 50ml double cream.
Season the chicken generously inside and out, then stuff the cavity with one of the garlic halves, both lemon halves, half the sage and the bay leaves. Put the oil in a large, deep casserole over a medium heat and, once it is hot, brown the chicken all over, taking time to do this properly as it makes a real difference to the overall taste. Once browned, set the chicken aside.
In the oil left over from browning the chicken, fry the remaining garlic and sage with the chilli and cinnamon. Once fragrant, stir in the squash wedges to coat them in the aromatic oil. Cook for two minutes, then pour in the wine and leave to bubble until reduced by half. Push the squash to the sides of the pan, nestle the chicken in the middle, pour in the stock, cover and cook on a gentle heat for 50 minutes to an hour. Once cooked, stir in the cream, season if needed, and serve.
Fudgy pumpkin pie cookies
These cookies are described as perfect for a little Halloween indulgence. The recipe makes about 20 cookies.
For the pumpkin puree, use 200g red kuri or kabocha squash, halved, deseeded, peeled and cut into 2cm cubes; 50g granulated sugar; 1 tsp ground cinnamon; ½ tsp ground ginger; a pinch of ground cloves; and a good grating of nutmeg. For the cookies, use 225g plain flour; 1 tsp cinnamon; ½ tsp ground ginger; a pinch of cloves; a good grating of nutmeg; ½ tsp baking powder; ½ tsp bicarbonate of soda; salt; 225g light brown sugar; 175g unsalted butter; 2 egg yolks; and 1 tsp vanilla extract.
Start by making the pumpkin puree. Put the pumpkin in a microwave-safe container and microwave on high for five minutes. Remove, toss, then microwave on high again for another five minutes. Keep repeating until the pumpkin is soft and mashable – the timing depends on the microwave, but in this case it took 15 minutes. Once soft, puree in a food processor (or mash well with a fork) until smooth, then leave to cool.
In a small bowl, mix the sugar and spices. In a medium bowl, mix the flour, spices, baking powder, bicarb and half a teaspoon of salt. In a stand mixer, cream the brown sugar and butter until light and fluffy. Add the egg yolks and vanilla, whisk again until pale and fluffy, then stir in the pumpkin puree until well combined. Fold in the dry ingredients, then chill in the fridge for 40 minutes, until firm.
Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4 and line two baking sheets with greaseproof paper. Scoop out two tablespoons of the cookie mixture and roll them into loose balls. Roll these in the spiced sugar mix and place on the baking sheets spaced well apart. Repeat with the remaining cookie mix, then bake for 12 minutes, until golden brown. Remove and leave to cool on the baking sheet for five minutes, then transfer to a rack to cool completely.
