Retinol is the buzziest ingredient in skincare – and for good reason. Some studies suggest topical retinol can improve the appearance of fine lines and other signs of skin ageing. A beauty editor with 17 years of experience has tested 15 retinoid products for at least eight weeks each to find the 10 best performers for every skin type and budget.
What are retinoids and how do they work?
Retinol is part of a wider family of retinoids – vitamin A derivatives that include retinol itself. Retinol has become well known thanks to its widespread use in over-the-counter skincare. The benefits of retinoids, from accelerating cell turnover to stimulating collagen production, are well evidenced. Tretinoin was first prescribed in the US in the 1970s as an acne treatment, and retinoids soon revealed their potential beyond breakouts, helping to soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, fade pigmentation and smooth skin texture.
Any changes don’t happen overnight. It can take time to develop a tolerance to retinoids, as side effects such as redness and irritation are common. Over a short period, though, “you can expect to see early improvements in skin texture and brightness within four to six weeks and more significant results around pigmentation, acne or fine lines closer to eight to 12 weeks with consistent use,” says Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, GP and aesthetics doctor. It’s also even more important than usual to use a broad-spectrum face SPF, as retinoids can make skin more sensitive to sunlight.
How the products were tested
The beauty editor started by putting together a list of her favourite 15 products. To make the cut, the formula had to be one she’d used until the bottle was empty – or bought again afterwards. Each product was used as part of an evening routine for a minimum of eight weeks. The products were assessed on texture, ease of use, side effects, noticeable skin changes, value and ingredients.
Here are the 10 best performers.
Best retinal serum overall: Medik8 Crystal retinal
Retinal (short for retinaldehyde) has been fast and furiously coming for retinol’s popularity crown, with an increasing number of beauty brands turning to this advanced retinoid. Medik8 has been using retinal since 2018, and this serum is now among the bestselling retinal serums worldwide. The brand claims it works faster than standard retinol while being gentler on the skin. Medik8 says its crystal encapsulation gradually releases retinal throughout the night, limiting the risk of irritation.
The tester says she has seen this formula banish breakouts, fade pigmentation, plump out lines and wrinkles and firm the skin with continued use. It has a light and easy-to-apply texture. It’s a shame that if you’re new to retinoids, you may still experience breakouts, flaking or dryness. Price: from £36 for 30ml. Strength and type: 0.01 to 0.24% retinal. Vegan? Yes. Certified cruelty-free? No.
Best budget retinal serum: Naturium retinaldehyde cream serum
US skincare brand Naturium has been gaining serious momentum in the UK beauty space. Its formula comes in a much larger-than-some 50ml tube, so you get a lot of vitamin A for your buck. There are two strengths to choose from in the UK. Its lightweight texture absorbs in seconds, making it easy to add into your evening skincare routine. Note that while the serum is bright yellow out of the tube, it massages in clear.
Just like Medik8, it uses a sustained-release retinal, which the brand says supports skin comfort. The tester experienced no irritation at all in use. It’s a shame that her skin needs a rich moisturiser layered on top to keep dryness at bay. Price: from £32 for 50ml. Strength and type: 0.05% and 0.10% retinal. Vegan? Yes. Certified cruelty-free? Yes.
Best retinal cream for wrinkles: Murad Resurgence Retinal ReSculpt overnight cream
Clinician-developed skincare is everywhere right now, but Dr Howard Murad was one of the first, in 1989. This retinal cream combines encapsulated retinal with Murad’s NAD+ Lift Complex, which the brand says boosts production of NAD+, a coenzyme involved in cellular repair that declines with age. The tester found it so effective that after just four weeks, her complexion already looked smoother, plumper and firmer, with deeper lines noticeably softened.
Its creamy texture is still beautifully lightweight, and it’s packed with hydrating ingredients such as squalane, hyaluronic acid and glycerine. It’s a shame that it has such a high price. Price: from £98 for 50ml. Strength and type: retinal (strength not specified). Vegan? Yes. Certified cruelty-free? Yes.
Best retinol serum for beginners: The Inkey List Starter retinol serum
Known for its hard-working, ingredient-led formulations at wallet-friendly prices, the Inkey List has done it again with two impressive new retinoid products: an advanced 0.2% retinal serum for experienced users and a beginner-friendly retinol, the latter of which was put to the test. This gentle formula is ideal for first-time vitamin A users, and the brand claims it’s suitable for sensitive and rosacea-prone complexions. It combines 1% Granactive Pro+ and 0.01% retinal alongside hydrating, skin-barrier-supporting and calming ingredients.
In testing, no side effects were experienced. It’s lightweight, silky and fragrance-free, making it easy to slot into an evening routine, although it could leave skin feeling dry without a hydrating moisturiser to follow. It’s a shame that the packaging is basic. Price: from £9.51 for 30ml. Strength and type: 1% Granactive Pro+ retinoid and 0.01% retinal. Vegan? Yes. Certified cruelty-free? Yes.
Best retinol serum for mature skin: Lancôme Rénergie CRx Triple Serum retinol
Lancôme has been around for more than 90 years. In the Renergie CRx serum, Lancôme combines three actives: retinol, vitamin C and X-peptides, in a formula it says is non-irritating. The serum feels luxuriously silky and is a pleasure to use, giving instant hydration without stickiness. Together, the three actives target the signs of ageing, with vitamin C helping to brighten and peptides intended to soothe the skin.
Having come to the end of the bottle, the tester’s skin is smoother, more even-toned and more radiant, with pores and lines less visible. It’s a shame that it has such a big price tag. Price: from £96 for 50ml. Strength and type: 0.3% retinol. Vegan? No. Certified cruelty-free? No.
Best of the rest
The Ordinary retinal 0.2% emulsion is best for experienced users. The Ordinary recommends it for experienced retinoid users rather than beginners, but the brand says continued use can leave skin looking smoother, firmer and more even-toned. It’s beautifully lightweight and a little goes a long way, but the yellow hue of the retinal can stain clothing. You get only 15ml for the price, which isn’t quite the excellent value for money expected from the brand. Price: from £15.20 for 15ml. Vegan? Yes. Certified cruelty-free? Yes.
Kiehl’s retinol Skin-Renewing Daily Micro-Dose serum is best for dry skin. It’s a gentle retinol Kiehl’s says is designed specifically for first-time users and those with sensitive skin. It contains ceramides, which the brand says help strengthen the skin barrier and improve tolerance of retinol. The tester has used plenty of bottles of this over the years and has never seen any side effects. It didn’t make the final cut because cheaper gentle formulas, such as the Inkey List’s Starter retinol serum, are available. Price: from £38.50 for 30ml. Vegan? No. Certified cruelty-free? No.
CeraVe Resurfacing retinol serum is best for acne-prone skin. This gentle, lightweight retinol serum is great for tackling blemish-prone skin, and it does so with the help of a few other actives. While retinol increases skin cell turnover, niacinamide soothes, and liquorice-root extract helps skin appear brighter. Being CeraVe, it’s packed with the brand’s signature ceramides to strengthen and support the skin barrier. It didn’t make the final cut because it takes time to see results. Price: from £23.50 for 30ml. Vegan? No. Certified cruelty-free? No.
RoC Retinol Correxion Line Smoothing night serum capsules are best for retinol capsules. RoC says it was the first skincare company to offer stabilised retinol with other ingredients over the counter. These biodegradable capsules limit exposure to light and air, preserving the retinol’s potency. The pre-measured dose also stops you from using too much. The formula combines ceramides with retinol, and no drying or redness was experienced in testing. It didn’t make the final cut because you get only 10.5ml in total, so they can work out quite expensive. Price: from £35.99 for 10.5ml. Vegan? No. Certified cruelty-free? Yes.
La Roche-Posay retinol B3 serum is best for sensitive skin. French pharmaceutical brand La Roche-Posay is known for a problem-solving approach to skincare. This serum is particularly well suited to those who may have struggled with retinol dryness and irritation in the past. The reason for this is a gentle formula that includes skin-soothing and skin barrier-strengthening B3 (better known as niacinamide) and glycerine for hydration. It didn’t make the final cut because it’s for sensitive skin only. Price: from £38.40 for 30ml. Strength and type: 0.3% retinol. Vegan? No. Certified cruelty-free? No.
What you need to know
Retinoids, or vitamin A derivatives such as retinol and retinal, are skincare powerhouses backed by scientific evidence that shows they do two clever things. Firstly, they can speed up the skin’s natural renewal process. “Retinoids help to increase cellular turnover, which naturally slows down as we age,” says El Muntasar. “This means the skin sheds more effectively, revealing newer, fresher skin underneath that looks brighter, more hydrated and even.” They continue to be recommended for those who have acne, as they help unclog pores, reduce inflammation and outbreaks, and fade hyperpigmentation.
Retinoids’ second clever trick is their ability to support collagen and elastin production. As these essential proteins decline, lines, wrinkles and a loss of firmness become more apparent. “They’re not just treating one concern; they’re improving the skin’s underlying structure,” says Dr Sheila Li, founder of Mediject Clinic. “Over time, skin becomes smoother, brighter and more resilient.”
There is no set answer to what percentage of retinol is most effective. The most effective percentage is the one your skin can tolerate without disrupting the barrier or needing to stop. All the dermatologists interviewed advise starting with the “go low and go slow” method. Starting on a low percentage minimises the risk of dryness, irritation, redness and peeling. “Build tolerance gradually,” says Li. “Apply two or three nights a week at first, and increase slowly.”
Retinoids are best used in your evening routine when your skin naturally goes into repair mode, but also because they can increase photosensitivity. This makes a broad-spectrum SPF an even more essential part of your morning routine. “I recommend pairing a retinoid with a simple, barrier-supporting moisturiser and avoiding too many active ingredients alongside it, especially in the early stages,” says El Muntasar. “Ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, ceramides and niacinamide help support the skin and reduce irritation.”
It all comes down to potency when it comes to why some retinoids are prescription-only. “Prescription-only retinoids, such as tretinoin and adapalene, work faster and treat more severe skin conditions,” says Dr Leah Totton, medical doctor and cosmetic specialist. “But they also carry a higher risk of irritation, redness and peeling and so require medical supervision for safe use.”
