Is there a more exhilarating feeling for a traveller than when a train bursts out of a tunnel into the daylight? That sudden flood of light and rush of air signals the start of an adventure. It's no surprise that trains are reclaiming their status as a preferred mode of transport, with 2025 seeing a 7% rise in UK train travel and more Europeans than ever opting for rail journeys.
A Seamless Cross-Border Expedition
In late December, I embarked on a slow-train odyssey across the historic railways of the Swiss Alps and the Italian lakes. Covering approximately 1,800 miles (2,900km) and crossing five countries, this trip was almost entirely undertaken on scenic daytime trains. From the outset, the ease of this mode of travel was striking—and slightly disorienting. Drifting through stations, across platforms, and over borders, it felt surreal to have traversed three countries—the UK, France, and Switzerland—in less than a day. The stressful fingerprint scans of airport security were replaced by polite immigration officers, one of whom remarked on my extensive travels with a wry smile.
Through the Winter Landscapes
As the French countryside blurred into Swiss hills under a thin veil of wintry light, the fields and bare trees seemed suspended in anticipation of colder days. Arriving in Zurich offered the first glimpse of the milky Alpine peaks, setting the stage for the journey ahead. The thrill of train travel lies in these steadily shifting scenes, where the landscape rises and falls like freshly leavened bread.
Historic Routes and Alpine Splendour
The following morning, under crisp blue skies, we ascended via the Matterhorn Gotthard railway, one of Europe's most historic train routes. Opened in 1882, this line revolutionised travel by carving a path through inhospitable mountains and isolated villages. Opting for the historic IR46 train, we avoided the Gotthard base tunnel to fully appreciate the route's beauty, famously captured by JMW Turner and revered by Goethe. Though Goethe spoke of submitting to nature, the eye-watering prices for Swiss coffee in the cafe car felt more like submitting to inflation.
With phones charging—adhering to slow-train etiquette—we spent three hours gazing out at the mythic Alps. The Gotthard "spirals," corkscrew tracks built inside mountains for a steady climb, unveiled vertiginous gorges, frothing rivers, and snow-capped peaks straight out of an oil painting.
From Switzerland to Italy
At Göschenen, a short rack-and-pinion ride took us to Andermatt, a former garrison town now a chic ski retreat. Here, thick snow and dark Alpine stone created a monochrome scene. A comforting lunch at Biselli, accompanied by Swiss Ticino red wine, softened the impact of a dense mist that had settled over the rail route. As we crossed into Italy, clear skies and terracotta valley towns emerged, along with a welcome drop in cappuccino prices—from €5 to €2—enjoyed while skimming the ice-blue Lake Lugano.
Lake Como and Onward to Turin
By dusk, we reached Lake Como. A leisurely passeggiata around the lake, free from high-season crowds, revealed ornate street lamps lining the water like washed-up pearls. The funicular to Brunate glowed with golden lights, dangling down the hillside like lost jewellery. The next morning, embracing the transient nature of slow-train travel, we packed quickly and headed for Turin, bypassing Milan for this underappreciated metropolis.
Arriving at Torino Porta Susa, we discovered a vibrant student city where 1920s art deco neon signs adorn 18th-century baroque buildings housing vintage shops run by students in 1990s attire. This eclectic mix thrives under impressive porticos stretching over 18km, lined with boutiques and historic coffee bars. An aperitivo at Caffè Università, with its frayed edges and charmingly outmoded buffet, capped off the evening.
Turin's Cultural Treasures
Turin's museums and galleries, many free with the Torino card, beckoned the next day. The Mole Antonelliana, a 19th-century spire housing the Museo Nazionale del Cinema, blends neoclassical architecture with pop culture relics like an xenomorph egg from Alien. Similarly, the Lingotto complex features La Pista 500, a rooftop garden walk on a former Fiat test track, showcasing Turin's commitment to evolving history rather than merely preserving it.
As a chill set in, we dined at Osteria Rabezzana, part of the Mangébin circuit promoting Piedmontese cuisine. Dishes like brasato al barolo and agnolotti del plin, served in a convivial atmosphere full of locals on festive outings, highlighted the city's culinary heritage.
The Journey Home
Our return began with a 7.36 TGV to Paris, offering final glimpses of the Italian Alps. Drifting in and out of sleep, we arrived in Paris as day faded, eventually boarding the Eurostar laden with wine bottles and crushed panettone. Homebound and heady, we reluctantly entered the Channel tunnel, leaving the light of our Alpine adventure behind.
Transport for this journey was facilitated by Interrail, with passes allowing seven days of travel within one month priced at £255 for youths, £339 for adults, and £305 for seniors (under-12s travel free). Return Eurostar fares from London to Paris start from £78. Accommodation included The Home Hotel Zurich (from £165 B&B), Hilton Lake Como (from €270 B&B), NH Collection Torino Piazza Carlina (from £203 B&B), and 25hours Terminus Nord in Paris (from €179 room-only).
