Gibara is a coastal fishing village at the end of a highway from Holguín, the provincial capital in south-east Cuba, reachable by domestic flight from Havana. The town is known for its charming squares, run-down Spanish-era buildings and a cobalt bay. With its railway suspended in 1958, just before the Revolution, Gibara has a sleepy, timeless atmosphere, free of revolutionary slogans and internet access, which has helped preserve its character and natural beauty.
Founded in 1817, Gibara prospered as a key port with trading links to Spain and the United States. A ruined fortress still stands as a reminder of its wealthy merchant past. However, the construction of a highway in the 1920s reduced its strategic importance, and the loss of the train accelerated its decline. Hurricanes Ike in 2008 and Sandy in 2012 dealt further blows, leaving the town run-down but retaining a rustic prettiness.
The town's cultural highlight is the Festival Internacional del Cine Pobre, started in 2003 by the late Cuban filmmaker Humberto Solás. This low-budget cinema festival, held every April, draws a global audience and showcases Latin America's independent film scene. Films are shown at the charming Cine Jiba, while locals often prefer the simultaneous street party with food stalls, comedy and disco dancing. Other events include the Romerías de Mayo in nearby Holguín, a January film festival in the Panadernos Caves, and an international tango festival planned for 2015.
Visitors can stay at the Hotel Ordoño Encanto, a 27-room colonial gem that reopened after renovation with a roof terrace and original features. The town offers the Museo de Arte Colonial and the Museo de Historia Natural, which houses stuffed birds and a whale skeleton. Stained-glass windows, known as vitrales, are a feature of local architecture, and residents often welcome visitors into their homes to admire them.
For those exploring the surrounding area, guides Ernesto Blanco and Arturo Rojas – a Holguín arts professor and the president of the Cuban cave diving association – can be booked through esenciaexperiences.com. They offer trips to search for wildlife in valleys and cave-filled limestone hills, or diving in the Tanque Azul de Caletones, a flooded cavern on a major migratory route.
