The Wellington in Margate, Kent, has been drawing crowds since chef Billy Stock and front-of-house manager Ellie Topham took over. Stock, formerly of Sète, The Marksman and St John, brings a philosophy of proper, unfussy food to this centuries-old pub near the promenade in the Old Town.
On a freezing winter day, the pub offers a warm refuge with a stiff negroni and French onion soup with beef short ribs, or a country-style terrine with cornichons. Non-alcoholic shrubs, like a sharp rhubarb option, are also available. The interior has been refreshed with French-themed prints but retains a nostalgic feel, reminiscent of old coaching houses.
The ever-changing menu celebrates comforting classics: cep cream vol-au-vents, salted rolls with butter, brill with peppercorn sauce, and chips with hollandaise. Stock's pies are a highlight, particularly the chicken and leek pie with buttery puff pastry, and a lobster and cod pie with a rich, thermidor-like sauce. Seasonal asparagus with sauce gribiche and rolled lamb rump with buttered turnips are also standout dishes.
Desserts include sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream or a milk chocolate mousse with candied hazelnuts, alongside a cheese selection and digestifs. The Sunday roast, with pigs in blankets and extra Yorkies, is described as worth braving a werewolf attack for.
The Wellington is open for lunch Friday to Sunday and dinner Wednesday to Saturday. À la carte costs about £50 for three courses, with a £35 set menu on Wednesdays. The warm service and hearty food make it a welcome addition to Margate's dining scene.
