The Wellington Margate: A Cosy Haven with Heartwarming Food and Service
Nestled in the Old Town of Margate, Kent, The Wellington has become a magnet for crowds, thanks to a recent takeover by chef Billy Stock and front-of-house expert Ellie Topham. Stock, formerly of the nearby Sète and with stints at London's The Marksman and St John, brings a pedigree that promises proper, hearty food rather than mere suggestions. On a blustery day with hailstones and freezing gales, this pub offers a much-needed refuge.
A Welcoming Atmosphere in Challenging Weather
Margate is often praised for its hip and charming revival, but on a freezing winter day, it tests even the most optimistic visitor. As icy hail pelts down, few would dream of relocating here. Instead, they seek solace in centuries-old pubs like The Wellington, just off the promenade. Here, you can dry off with a stiff negroni and a bowl of French onion soup enriched with beef short ribs. For drivers, there are excellent non-alcoholic shrubs, such as a sharp yet balanced rhubarb option available during our visit.
The Wellington feels like an old warhorse with a rich history. Stock and Topham have refreshed it with a lick of paint, French-themed prints, and subtle typography that signals a departure from chain pubs. Yet, it retains a nostalgic charm, reminiscent of rambling Borders pubs from childhood, blending elements of the Woolpack from Emmerdale with a touch of the Slaughtered Lamb from An American Werewolf. Described as a "reimagined classic pub," it serves Meteor and Guinness on draft, along with guest IPAs, while emphasising food to save historic buildings from developers.
An Ever-Changing Menu Full of Delights
The menu at The Wellington is a celebration of comforting dishes that bring joy. Highlights include cep cream vol-au-vents, plump salted rolls with good butter, chunks of brill in glossy peppercorn sauce, and chunky chips with hollandaise for dipping. The Sunday offering is particularly noteworthy, featuring pigs in blankets, pear trifle, extra Yorkshire puddings, and after-dinner cognac, making it worth braving even a werewolf attack for enthusiasts.
Chef Stock's pies are a standout, always present in various forms. The chicken and leek pie, served in a black earthenware pan with a buttery puff-pastry lid, is a definite star. Another highlight is the lobster and cod pie, with a rich, thermidor-like sauce packed with lobster meat and flaky cod. This sauce is so memorable that you might mourn its loss as leftovers head to the dishwasher.
Seasonal Dishes and Decadent Desserts
We also enjoyed fresh, seasonal asparagus, simply steamed and served with a rich, pale, silky sauce gribiche that wasn't over-eggy. A succulent rolled lamb rump came with buttered turnips and wilted greens, perfectly seasoned. Though tempted by sticky toffee pudding with clotted cream, we opted for an airy milk chocolate mousse topped with candied hazelnuts. The cheese board features comte, accompanied by at least seven types of sweet wines, cognac, calvados, and La Vieille Prune.
On a freezing day, The Wellington was gloriously toasty, and the service was even warmer. Topham, Stock, and their team clearly love their work and take pride in their achievements. While this incarnation is early days, the pub seems set for at least another century of success.
Details: The Wellington, 1 Duke Street, Margate, Kent, 01843 663803, thewellingtonmargate.co.uk. Open for lunch Friday to Sunday from noon to 2.30pm (4pm on Sunday), and for dinner Wednesday to Saturday from 5.30pm to 8.30pm. Prices are about £50 per person for three courses à la carte, or £35 for a three-course set menu on Wednesdays, plus drinks and service.
