British Airways will resume direct flights from London Heathrow to St. Louis in March, putting the Gateway to the West within a single hop for British travellers. With the city back on the direct-flight map, here is how to make the most of a two-day visit.
The city offers a serious musical pedigree, a food scene that extends well beyond its famous ribs, and more free attractions than any US city outside Washington, DC. The zoo, the art museum and the museum beneath the Gateway Arch all cost nothing to enter, leaving more of the budget for barbecue, beer and gig tickets.
Day one: The Arch and classic treats
Start the day at Donut Drive-In, a Route 66 stop that claims to serve the best doughnuts on the whole of the Mother Road. Then head to the riverfront and the Gateway Arch, the tallest man-made monument in the US at 630ft. A tram carries visitors to the summit in a compact five-seat pod for a four-minute ride, with views across downtown to the west and over the Mississippi into Illinois to the east. Tram tickets sell out regularly, so booking before flying is advised.
Afterwards, board the Tom Sawyer, a replica 19th-century paddle steamer, for a one-hour sightseeing cruise narrated by National Park Service captains. Lunch can be had at Crown Candy Kitchen, serving St. Louis since 1913, where the Heart-Stopping BLT with a chocolate malt is on the menu.
For the afternoon, choose between the City Museum and Busch Stadium. The City Museum, built by sculptor Bob Cassilly and a crew of artisans in a former shoe warehouse, features underground tunnels, a suspended aeroplane and a ten-storey slide. Busch Stadium, home of the St. Louis Cardinals, offers game tickets or tours, and houses the St. Louis Cardinals Hall of Fame and Museum with seven interactive galleries.
Evening in Soulard and day two in Forest Park
Spend the evening in Soulard, one of the oldest neighbourhoods, where the Anheuser-Busch brewery tours finish in the biergarten with a beer on the house. Dinner can be had at Stew's Food and Liquor, known for craft cocktails and Asian-inspired dishes, with live music at Hammerstone's, Broadway Oyster Bar or Old Rock House.
Day two begins in Forest Park, approximately 1,300 acres and 500 acres larger than Central Park. Most of what's on offer is free, including the Saint Louis Zoo, the Saint Louis Art Museum and the Missouri History Museum. There are more than 30 miles of trails, and paddle boats or kayaks can be hired at the Boathouse from spring to autumn.
Lunch is on The Hill, the Italian neighbourhood where toasted ravioli, or t-ravs, are said to have been born in the 1950s. Charlie Gitto's serves what it bills as the original. The afternoon can be spent at the Missouri Botanical Garden, with around 27,000 varieties, or catching a St. Louis Blues game at Enterprise Center, where the concession stands serve local flavours.
Barbecue and the Delmar Loop
Dinner calls for proper barbecue. Pappy's Smokehouse in Midtown goes the Memphis route with dry-rubbed, slow-smoked ribs that the Food Network once named the best in America, while Salt + Smoke offers BBQ, bourbon and beer. Urban Chestnut's biergarten and Schlafly's downtown Tap Room are stops for craft beer.
Finish on the Delmar Loop, where independent shops, restaurants and music venues line Delmar Boulevard. Brass stars in the pavement honour St. Louis names including Tina Turner and Maya Angelou. Blueberry Hill is the landmark, where Chuck Berry played its Duck Room for 209 months in a row. The Pageant and Delmar Hall bring in national touring acts. For dessert, Fitz's serves root beer floats made with soda from its own retro bottling line.
With more time, St. Louis makes a natural starting point for a bigger trip. Route 66 runs straight through it and celebrates its 100th anniversary this year. Start at the Old Chain of Rocks Bridge, now open only to pedestrians, where the mile-long bridge bends by 22 degrees and bald eagles may be spotted in winter. Ted Drewes, a frozen custard stand on the original route, hands over its thick 'concretes' upside down. Further west lie Route 66 State Park, Meramec Caverns, Missouri's wine country and Mark Twain's hometown of Hannibal. Across the Mississippi in Illinois, the Great River Road winds north of Alton, where the Piasa Bird, a creature from Native American legend, is painted on the cliffs, and Pere Marquette State Park offers a leg-stretch.
