South Africa, it turns out, is the Taylor Swift of countries. It transforms people into hardcore, chanting superfans. Have you noticed? I’ve witnessed many rational people losing the plot over Cape Town. Their eyes glaze over, they mutter about Table Mountain, its cable car, to-die-for views, killer beaches, legendary surfing and the sacrosanct ritual of the braai (traditional barbecue). Frankly, that level of unbridled hype doesn’t just turn me off. It unplugs me from the wall socket. In fact, I was prepared to shove the working end of a springbok into the gob of the next person who brought up the penguins of Boulder’s Beach. Yet, when an invitation to South Africa landed in my inbox, I promptly accepted. How’s that for logic?
Haut-Safari
The trip was organised by Sabi Sabi, a family-owned private game reserve that has set the standard for ‘bush chic’ since 1979. They provide a five-star, VIP ticket to seeing the Big Five – lions, elephants, rhino, leopard and buffalo – up-close and personal. Sabi Sabi boasts a sleek and beautifully curated property portfolio. Until recently, they were strictly a ‘boots and binoculars’ operation. But last year, they expanded, purchasing a property in Cape Town and transforming it into The Camissa House, a newly-restored, 1920’s Cape Dutch manor nestled in a leafy, affluent suburb of Constantia. Think polished floorboards, delightful staff and a glass of crisp Cap Classique sparkling wine welded to your hand. Better yet, it sits on the doorstep of the historic Klein Constantia winery, which I visited that evening. Their world-famous dessert wine is divine, and wasn’t going to drink itself.
The next day was a whirlwind of the classic hits: Table Mountain, the breathtaking botanical gardens and yes, those penguins of Boulder Beach. We actually had a picnic on the sand while the little fellows sunned themselves on adjoining rocks. Well worth doing, if not just for bragging rights.
Off-track and into the wild
The next morning, I flew to Johannesburg and was collected by Sabi-Sabi’s open top Toyota Land Cruiser. Our Head Ranger, Jamil, did the honours, driving us through the sweeping reserve, where we spotted antelope and buffalo aplenty before we’d even unpacked. I spent the rest of my stay at Earth Lodge, built like an underground Bond-Villain lair, all earth-toned and open plan. I physically gasped when I saw my suite; sculpted into the slope, overlooking a private plunge-pool that’s essentially open access to passing wildlife. You might well wake up to an elephant or waterbuck drinking sedately from your pool. I know I did.
As a certified safari novice, the daily and nightly game drives were some of the most exhilarating things I’ve ever experienced. Sabi Sabi is located in the Sabi Sands Game Reserve, which famously shares an unfenced border with the Kruger National Park. But while visitors to Kruger are strictly confined to the tarmac, a private reserve means you can veer wildly off-track to where the real drama unfolds. Guided, of course, by Jamil, who carries rifles and regularly hopped out to read the ancient hieroglyphics of animal tracks in the dirt, which we then pursued like thirsty blood hounds. Watching a young leopard stealthily stalking a warthog is an image that will live rent-free in my head forever. There’s an intoxicating rawness to it all. Parking up mid-safari to be handed a coffee heavily dosed with Amarula cream liqueur, while standing on the actual ground amongst free-roaming wildlife, beautifully reminds you of just how small we really are.
My most cherished memories? Sitting in an open-topped jeep a whisker away from three dozing male lions, who were stretched out precisely like my Golden Retriever after a long walk. And later, strolling back to my room in the evening with the Head Ranger, only to be greeted by a family of colossal-looking hippos, including the baby.
The essentials
Sabi Sabi delivered an unforgettable, seamless experience. Every detail was thought of, including a treasure-trove of a wine cellar that kept this particular lush incredibly happy, alongside some truly exceptional dining. It’s safety-first, naturally, but they crucially maintain the magic, the pulse and the sheer adrenaline of feeling like you’ve stepped directly into a David Attenborough documentary. Sign me up for the fan club. I’m officially a Swiftie for South Africa.
Virgin Atlantic flies direct from London Heathrow to Johannesburg, with return fares from £678 per person, including complimentary food, drink, inflight entertainment and taxes. Travellers’ Tales will arrange your trip to South Africa from £5385 per person based on two guests travelling with three nights at Earth Lodge, Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve and three nights at The Claremont Boutique Hotel, Cape Town. Includes accommodation, activities, private transfers, VIP services, game drives, meals and beverages on safari, domestic scheduled and chartered bush flights, with Travellers Tales. Not including international flights.
