The sunny Danish island of Samsø offers tranquil walks, biking, birding, distillery and pottery tours, and locally sourced fare – including citrusy ants. This island, just 43 square miles off the coast of the Jutland peninsula, is a poster child for sustainability and the good life, known as 'Denmark's vegetable garden'. It has been energy-positive since 2007 and aims to be fossil fuel-free by 2030.
A Springtime Haven
Spring is an ideal time to visit Samsø, as the island awakens with blooming hedges and fresh produce. Det Lille Sommerhotel in Ballen serves as a cosy base, run by Daniel Hesseldal-Haines and his wife Lea. Daniel highlights local ingredients, such as lamb from Camilla's farm. Camilla, a guest at the hotel, showcases her handmade 'hønsestrik' sweater, a form of chicken knitting that tells her hiking story through colourful motifs.
Exploring by Bike and Foot
With temperatures rarely exceeding 22°C even in summer, spring's 15°C feels balmy for outdoor activities. Peaceful country roads lead from Ballen to Vesborg Fyr, a striking white lighthouse built in 1858. From its top, panoramic views reveal breeze-ruffled fields, sparkling sea, and wind turbines. The island has no traffic lights but many electric charging points, mostly in Tranebjerg, the 'big city' with the tourist office, hospital, and supermarket.
Local Flavours and Crafts
Aage Madsen of Samsø Bær creates juices, jams, oils, and liqueurs from local bounty, including birch schnapps from his garden. Visitors can tour the factory and sample products. The island's pottery tradition shines at Sigrid Hovmand's studio in Nordby, where hand-thrown ceramics are both tactile and practical.
Unique Distillery Experiences
Sams Island Distillery, established in 2017 by Mads Nielsen, sources ingredients locally. Mads grows beets for rum, makes seasonal berry liqueurs, and forages for Lasius fuliginosus ants, whose citrusy secretion adds a lemony kick to gin. He previously supplied these ants to Copenhagen's three Michelin-starred restaurant Noma.
Natural Wonders
The Besser Rev spit, a 3-mile overground reef formed from glacial marine deposits, offers a narrow, stony path with scrubby vegetation. Tidal activity sometimes restricts access, and from April to July, nesting seabirds make parts off-limits. Despite this, sitting by the 'adgang forbudt' sign, one can enjoy the gentle sun and natural sounds, contemplating life on this idyllic island.
