Initial impressions were far from enthusiastic. 'Pretty second rate,' remarked my friend Mel. 'Rubbish,' my son Freddy complained, adding, 'I still can't believe they replaced the hotpot with this.' This sentiment captures the core issue. Mr Dumpling, located at the Shepherd's Bush end of Goldhawk Road, once housed Shu Xiang Ge HotPot, a venue known for its steamy windows and simmering broths.
A Shift from Hotpot to Dumplings
That establishment was a place of weekly pilgrimage, both restorative and therapeutic, where one dipped various meats, fish, and fungi into a bubbling brew that was at once violent with dried chillies and fragrant with Sichuan pepper. Suddenly, it vanished. The foggy windows were cleaned and enlarged, and now three chefs in immaculate whites work behind the glass, expertly filling and shaping dumplings with practiced skill.
Efficient Service and Menu Exploration
This is not a spot for lingering. Orders are placed via tabletop QR codes, though menus are available upon request, and service is briskly efficient. Having visited twice, I have yet to explore the wilder sections of the fairly extensive menu, which includes items like intestines, pig's ears, and spinal cord. Those delights, along with a hearty selection of noodle soups, remain for future visits.
Every table is equipped with pots of soy sauce, chilli oil, and vinegar, allowing for customised dipping. The menu at Mr Dumpling is described as 'no-nonsense and good value.'
Dish Highlights and Critiques
We started with finely shredded potato, offering a gentle crunch and a hint of dried chilli, followed by cool smacked cucumbers with peanuts and a sharp vinegar kick. Hangzhou xiaolongbao appeared as densely fluffy steamed buns rather than the typical soup-filled pastries, but they provided comforting heft and decent spice.
Next, we ordered pork and pickled-cabbage steamed dumplings, a dozen tightly packed pieces for under £13, with pastry not too thick and filling that was fresh and well-seasoned. Prawn, pork, and chive dumplings were equally respectable, being pure, clean, and chewy in all the right ways. The ingredients here are notably superior to the norm. However, pork and prawn potstickers were somewhat lacklustre.
Atmosphere and Takeaway Options
Despite this, Mr Dumpling thrives, consistently busy with a predominantly Chinese clientele. Fresh dumplings are also available for takeaway, to be steamed at home.
While it may never replace the beloved hotpot, if you seek no-nonsense, good-value steamed dumplings served quickly and with minimal fuss, Mr Dumpling delivers effectively.
Approximately £25 per person. Mr Dumpling, 10-12 Goldhawk Road, London W12; instagram.com/mr.dumpling888. Rating: Provided in the original article.
