Manchester's American Food Revolution: Hoagies, Subs and Pizza Takeover
On a brisk Friday in central Manchester, crowds gather in a Chinatown service alley, clutching paper bags filled with crinkle-cut chips and enormous sandwiches. This scene, reminiscent of Covid-era dining, is a regular occurrence at Fat Pat's, a takeaway operation that has leveraged word-of-mouth and social media to become a city-wide sensation.
The Rise of Hyper-Regional American Cuisine
Fat Pat's, inspired by North American sandwiches like Philly cheesesteaks and hot honey-fried chicken subs, has captivated Manchester since its launch. Using fresh semolina milk rolls baked daily at 3am and vibrant housemade condiments, it has garnered media praise and a loyal following. In just three years, it expanded with dark kitchens in outer Manchester and a London branch, turning obscure American sandwich specialities into a British fast-food empire.
But Fat Pat's is not alone. Nell's offers New York-style pizzas in Chorlton and Manchester, while Bada Bing in the Northern Quarter serves Italian-American subs inspired by The Sopranos. Newcomer Brodega specialises in chopped cheese sandwiches from Manhattan. This trend, though seen elsewhere in the UK, has taken a particularly intense hold in Manchester.
Sam Gormally, co-founder of Bada Bing, notes, "I think people from Manchester have got a similar attitude to New Yorkers. We're really friendly but also a bit rough around the edges. The burger trend, pizzas; we're authentic people and it's quite authentic food." With the Northern Quarter's brownstones and Salford's hi-rises, Manchester has become an unlikely gastronomic protectorate—dubbed the United States of Mancunia.
Why Manchester, and Why Now?
Statistics show Manchester outpacing London in hospitality spending, with 59% of Mancunians increasing their annual eat-out spend compared to 44% of Londoners. Factors include TikTok virality, the growth of halal-friendly dining, and a recessionary shift toward affordable, specialised indulgences. Gormally observes, "Lots of really good restaurants are struggling... but we're alright. We get a lot of middle-aged men coming in, treating themselves to a £12 sandwich."
The pandemic played a crucial role. Fat Pat's founder Aanish Chauhan, a Manchester-raised chef, started with pop-ups on a micro-budget during lockdowns. Similarly, Gormally launched Bada Bing after a Sopranos binge, operating from makeshift kitchens. TikTok's rise enabled the rapid spread of culinary ideas, from birria tacos to smash burgers, driving this new wave of Americana.
Authenticity Without Travel
Interestingly, many chefs behind these ventures haven't tasted the authentic US dishes they replicate. Gormally visited New York only once at 18, while Chauhan admits never eating a real po' boy or Philly cheesesteak. Kyle McKeown of McKeown's Slices learned New York-style pizza from YouTube tutorials. Yet, their creations hold up, reflecting the potency of US food traditions.
This trend aligns with a decline in US travel from western Europe, down 4% annually in December, making local Americana more appealing. Gormally says, "We take a lot of influence from America but we just try to take the best bits. It's going a bit mad [there now] so this is probably a safer environment."
Future Prospects and Expansion
Plans for expansion are underway. Bada Bing aims for a second location near the town hall, while Fat Pat's eyes a London restaurant. Chefs guard their recipes closely: Kaushal imports spices anonymously, Gormally keeps hoagie roll details secret, and Chauhan shares recipes only with his father. This secrecy underscores the competitive edge in a booming market.
Chauhan reflects, "From my experience, the people I serve don't really associate it with America any more; they just associate it with junk. It's like taking drugs. People look forward to it at the end of the week... It's morphed into something else." As demand persists, Manchester's star-spangled food scene shows no signs of slowing down.
