Lisbon is one of those cities where it's easy to spend an entire weekend or week following the crowds. From its famous yellow trams and tiled streets to the viewpoints overlooking the Tagus, Portugal's capital has become one of Europe's most popular city break destinations. In the past ten years, its annual visitor numbers have nearly doubled, bringing new energy and cash injection into the country's tourism industry, but also causing stress and financial concerns for residents.
Staying in Saldanha
During her stay, Sophie Harris wanted to find a different, quieter side of Lisbon, away from the busiest tourist streets. Her base was the Luster Hotel, a contemporary hotel in the Saldanha area, about a 20-minute drive north of the city centre. The hotel is located on Avenida Casal Ribeiro, close to Praça Duque de Saldanha, surrounded by avenues packed with cafes and restaurants full of locals.
Nearby attractions include Eduardo VII Park, about a 10-minute walk from the hotel, with views towards the Tagus and São Jorge Castle. Avenida da Liberdade, another must-visit, stretches for 1.1km and is lined with trees and gardens, packed with designer shops and cafes.
Local Discoveries
One of Harris's favourite discoveries was Pomme Eatery, a small-plates restaurant and wine bar tucked away down a quiet street. The restaurant has become something of a destination in its own right, but still feels like a place you could easily walk past. Harris indulged in beef skewers, Parmesan fries, roasted carrots, and bruschetta, among other foods. There's an unexpected celebrity connection, too, with Harry Styles spotted dining in the restaurant three years ago.
For something quintessentially Portuguese, Pastelaria Versailles was definitely worth a stop. The grand pastry shop dates back to 1922 and is known for its elaborate interiors, traditional pastries and pastel de nata. The bakery makes the custard tarts on site, alongside other Portuguese pastries, including eclairs.
The Luster Hotel Experience
Luster Hotel has 56 rooms in total, all with a contemporary design intended to provide a comfortable place to unwind. The standard accommodation includes double and twin rooms, while the suites offer considerably more space and are designed more like luxury apartments, making them suitable for families or anyone looking for extra space. Rooms have air conditioning, a desk, Wi-Fi, a television, a safe and a minibar, while bathrooms come with toiletries and a hairdryer. Some rooms offer views towards the pool or city.
The hotel's main dining space is Oui Mais Non, its contemporary restaurant and bar. The menu draws inspiration from different cuisines rather than concentrating solely on traditional Portuguese food, with dishes such as grilled black pork, veal, Atlantic moqueca and steak. Breakfast was another highlight with an array of continental and cooked breakfast options.
Amenities and Booking
Amenities are where the Luster Hotel really sets itself apart. The hotel has both indoor and outdoor swimming pools, so guests have somewhere to swim or relax, whether in warmer weather or indoors. There is a spa and wellness centre with facilities including a sauna and steam room, as well as massage and treatment options. Harris had a massage during her stay, describing it as one of the best she's ever had. There is also a very quiet gym with an array of machines.
Other useful facilities include free Wi-Fi, luggage storage, room service and a 24-hour reception. Harris appreciated being able to use the facilities even after checkout to freshen up before an evening flight. Room rates vary depending on dates, room type and availability, with prices starting from around £172 per night for two people.
