In the bustling tourist district of Thamel, Kathmandu, cycle rickshaw driver Babu Tamang has become a local favourite—not just for his service, but for his constant canine companion, Shyam. The eight-year-old dog rides along or trots behind the rickshaw, delighting passengers who often leave extra tips for both man and pet.
Tamang’s bond with Shyam began after a tragedy. Two years ago, he learned that a leopard had killed his previous dog, Putle, in his home village, a six-hour drive from the capital. Devastated, Tamang later found a rough-looking stray in the garage where he parks his rickshaw. He named the dog Shyam, after the Hindu god Krishna, and the two have been inseparable ever since.
Every day, Shyam accompanies Tamang to work. When a passenger climbs aboard, Shyam follows behind, earning smiles and pats from bystanders. Once the ride ends, Tamang signals for the dog to hop onto the rickshaw. During peak summer heat, Shyam seeks shade beneath the vehicle, often picking up oil stains from the chains. “I have to give him a bath, but he doesn’t like it, and we often get into a little fight over it,” Tamang laughs.
Tamang shares a small apartment with two other rickshaw drivers, who accept Shyam’s constant presence. The only time they are separated is when Tamang visits his village, as dogs are not allowed on public buses. “I have to leave him behind in the garage with a mechanic friend. It makes me sad,” he says. As dusk falls and the lights of Thamel flicker on, Tamang’s rickshaw slowly returns home, with loyal Shyam close behind.
