Christopher Moss, a writer championing under-visited places, says the Isle of Man is a destination our grandparents would have loved but Brits now often ignore. In his new book, Where Tourists Seldom Tread, the Lancashire-born author explores some of the country's least touristy spots to better understand the nation and uncover hidden gems.
A seaside island with a balmy climate
Writing in the book, Moss notes that many people overlook the island from ferry crossings, with far more travelling by sea from the Mersey to Belfast than to the Isle of Man. The Crown Dependency, sitting in the Irish Sea off the coast of Cumbria and Northern Ireland, was in its heyday at the end of the 19th century, when balmy Atlantic breezes attracted around half a million visitors a year.
Today, visitor numbers are far lower, but interest has picked up since the coronavirus pandemic reignited domestic travel. Moss highlights that the island, which reaches 620 metres above sea level, offers a surprisingly lush landscape and a rich railway heritage.
A railway treasure and Douglas attractions
The Isle of Man Railway is one of the most complete surviving Victorian narrow-gauge steam railways in the world, opening in 1873 and still using much of its original rolling stock, steam locomotives, and infrastructure. Beyer, Peacock & Co locomotives connect Port Erin and Castletown, working alongside the Manx Electric Railway and Snaefell Mountain Railway. Moss describes the trains as feeling like trams, with wooden carriages and windows held open by leather straps, and notes that German visitors love them while locals take them for granted.
Most tourists spend time in Douglas, where around a third of the island's 84,000 people live. Key attractions include the free Manx Museum, which Moss calls "genuinely world class", the two-mile-long promenade with its vintage horse tram, and Douglas Head with sunset views over the bay. Below the Head stands the Tower of Refuge, built in 1832 by Sir William Hillary, founder of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution.
A special place for train lovers
Moss himself found the island "choca bloc" with visitors of a certain age during his visit, enjoying the trundle through hills and mist with amazing views of the moors, describing it as "beautiful and blissful". Late May and early June bring crowds for the iconic TT races, but Moss insists there is more to discover on the 30-mile rock, comparing it to Llandudno with its long sweeping terrace and a mix of modern churches, some spruced and some peeling.
His message to readers is simple: "It's okay to accept the headlines, but go and see and say hello. Most of these places are not as bad as the press portrays. Overtourism is a problem, but not in these places." He adds: "I think it's really important to love your homeland, and to fly as little as possible. It's important to try and like where you live." Where Tourists Seldom Tread is available in hardback for £19 and ebook for £12.99 on bookshop.org.
