The Dun Cow in Sunderland marked its 125th anniversary this October by offering the public a first-ever chance to explore its hidden rooms and unseen spaces. The week of activities included music nights and the inaugural 'Behind the Clock' tours, which concluded after a sell-out run, raising hopes that future tours may follow.
Historic Gin Palace and Celebrity Connections
The Grade II-listed pub on High Street West, designed in 1901, is classed as an original gin palace, a term for pubs with lavish interiors featuring etched mirrors and ornate mouldings that were once lit up like gold by gas lighting. Its proximity to Sunderland Empire attracted many performers over the years, including Laurel and Hardy and Russian ballet dancer Rudolf Nureyev.
Nureyev, during his 1992 visit on his last ever tour, reportedly felt unwell and popped in for some Guinness. Sid James, who died on the Empire stage, is rumoured to have had his last pint there. American star Howard Keel was so impressed by the Art Nouveau back-bar that he asked how much it would cost to buy it, but his hopes to have it shipped to the States were given short shrift.
Behind the Clock Tours
The tours, led by manager Josh Fletcher, started outside the pub, where close inspection of the decorative carvings above the door revealed surprises such as a cat, lizard and frog among the floral features, alongside the eponymous cow. Visitors then descended to the cellars, one warmer and one cold, filled with kegs.
The pub specialises in cask and keg beers, with Josh favouring truly local ones where possible, though Pennine Pale by Allendale Brewery remains a popular choice for regulars. Judging which beer and how much to stock can be difficult to avoid waste, while for certain Empire shows such as a musical, he knows to stock up on wine.
Hidden Upper Rooms and Ghostly Tales
Behind the bar lies evidence of a former outside area and lane, now incorporated into the pub. A staircase leads to a first-floor Drawing Room where memorabilia was displayed for free during the celebrations. Higher up, curving staircases with carved wooden bannisters lead to former hotel bedrooms, which have ornate fireplaces and windows offering close-up views of the Empire.
In the labyrinth of higher bare-board rooms, untouched fixtures include gas mantles, old sinks and a stove, all left to time. This floor, which has given rise to ghostly stories of unexplained sounds, also offers sight of the back of the pub's famous clock, very different to its two faces set within a copper fish-scale dome visible from outside. The tours, rounded off with a pie and a pint, proved a huge hit.
