There is much to admire about Cometa, a new contemporary Mexican seafood restaurant situated just above Carousel in London's vibrant Fitzrovia district. The space itself, formerly Carousel's upstairs bar, exudes an easy warmth with its bare-walled, softly lit design, complemented by handsome wooden chairs and diaphanous linen drapes. This inviting atmosphere encourages guests to linger, enhanced by staff who are both charming and efficient.
Drinks and Ambiance
We begin with proper micheladas, a Mexican twist on the Bloody Mary where beer replaces vodka. While it might sound unusual, the taste is divine, especially when mixed with Clamato, that mighty Canadian concoction of tomato and clam juice. Margaritas are also excellent, and the wine list includes a decent bottle of Mexican red, a rare find in the UK. Mexican wines, particularly from the Valle de Guadalupe region, can be very fine indeed, but they are seldom seen on menus over here.
Standout Dishes
The quality of ingredients is impeccable, as expected from a restaurant specialising in seafood. One dish in particular, the crab chilpachole rice, is astonishingly good: rich, throatily spiced, and possessed of all the salty swagger of a sea dog on shore leave. A cool dollop of smoked-eel cream adds an inspired touch. Pert, briny Maldon oysters come with a sharp, sprightly lemony dressing, and the stripped-back Caesar salad is a delight, featuring blushing pink radicchio slicked with a thickly creamy dressing and a fistful of crumbled cheese.
Areas for Improvement
However, not all dishes hit the mark. The prawn ceviche needs more kick and acidity; while the shellfish are pristine, they have sat a little too long in the marinade, resulting in a texture that leans towards woolly. This is a dish that mutters when it should holler. Additionally, the ex-dairy sirloin, though a fine piece of meat packed with the flavour of a long life well lived, is a touch overcooked. The accompanying salsa tarasca, along with the homemade salsa matcha, lacks punch and depth. Fresh salsas are the lifeblood of Mexican cooking, and while they are not meant to blow one's head off, they do require a low chilli growl.
Inspiration and Potential
Cometa never claims to be slavishly authentic, and it is all the better for it. Yet, when they cite inspiration from Mexico City's Contramar, an eternal classic, and the food carts of Ensenada in Baja California, where La Guerrerense still rules supreme, they are aiming high. With a few judicious tweaks, Cometa has the potential to truly dazzle.
Expect to pay about £60 per head at Cometa, located at 19 Charlotte Street, London W1. For more information, visit cometa.restaurant.
