Melbourne MasterChef alumnus and author Kishwar Chowdhury shares two vegetable-focused, winter-friendly Bengali recipes: one with pumpkin, another with eggplant. She emphasises the light-handed use of a single spice to accentuate good produce, noting that pumpkin paired with nigella and finished with spring onion was a flavour sensation to her as a child.
For the spiced pumpkin, peel 500g of kent or butternut pumpkin, remove seeds, and cut into medium cubes. Heat 3 tbsp vegetable oil in a frying pan over medium heat, add 1 tsp nigella seeds and let them crackle. Stir in 1 diced small onion and 2 finely chopped garlic cloves, frying until soft. Add the pumpkin, 1 tsp ground turmeric, and salt, tossing to coat. Cook until the bottoms char slightly, then cover for 15 minutes. Uncover, increase heat to evaporate moisture, add 2 slit green chillies, adjust seasoning, and garnish with ½ bunch finely chopped spring onions.
The achari begun is a take on pickles, balancing rich rice dishes and meats. For 12 fairytale or 2 large eggplants, slit them (fairytale into quarters, large into eight strips). Toss with 1 tsp ground turmeric, 1 tsp chilli powder, salt, and 100ml mustard oil. Roast at 190C (170C fan) for 20 minutes or deep-fry until golden. Meanwhile, heat 4 tbsp mustard oil in a wok, add 2 dried red chillies and 2 tsp paanch phoron, then 1 diced large onion, 4 chopped garlic cloves, and 7.5cm sliced fresh ginger. Cook 3-4 minutes. Stir in 3 tbsp tamarind pulp, 60ml vinegar, 2 tsp sugar, salt, and a little water; simmer. Add the eggplants, stir, cover, and cook 12 minutes. Finish with 1 tsp chaat masala, lemon juice, fresh coriander, and 2 slit green chillies.
Paanch phoron is a five-seed blend of cumin, fenugreek, fennel, mustard, and nigella seeds, used whole in Bengali cooking. Serve the achari begun warm with naan and raita, or as a side to biryani or grilled tandoori fish.
