Waitrose has released its annual food and drink report, highlighting a trend where premium pantry staples like extra virgin olive oil, balsamic vinegar, and tinned fish have become middle-class status symbols. The report notes that sales of premium extra virgin olive oil have grown by 15%, apple cider vinegar by 6%, and Cornish salt flakes by 79% year on year.
Elinor Griffin, the supermarket's oils and vinegar buyer, said people are 'proudly showcasing' their pantry staples in their kitchens. 'Whether it's a gorgeous bottle of olive oil or raw apple cider vinegar, or artisanal flavoured salts, it's a great way to spark conversation and show off your chef credentials,' she said.
The report also highlights the rise of shortcut cooking-from-scratch as people return to the office. Over half (55%) of customers preferred a home-cooked meal over a takeaway, and 46% claimed to scratch-cook every day. However, with limited time, they turn to quality ready-made marinades and sauces from brands like Yotam Ottolenghi and Gymkhana.
Concerns about ultra-processed food have inspired 61% of home cooks to make something themselves rather than settle for a ready meal. The report notes that even humble staples like sardines, chickpeas, nuts, honey, vinegar, and salt are being 'yassified' with premium versions. For example, Ortiz sardines cost about £6 compared to £1 for the supermarket's cheapest own-brand equivalent.
James Bailey, Waitrose's executive director, said the cost of living still counts, but they are seeing a return to indulgence, with many spending more on key parts of their weekly shop, particularly bread, meat, and dairy.
